Утеплить дом снаружи своими руками: Утепление стен дома снаружи – способы, материалы, инструкции!

чтобы не было конденсата, какие выбрать материалы, дешево и красиво фото, видео

Сегодня стоимость теплоносителей составляет довольно большую долю от дохода среднестатистического жителя. Увы, но игнорировать теплопотери при высокой цене за газ/электричество, по крайней мере, неразумно.

Вот только стает вопрос, чем лучше утеплить дом снаружи, какие материалы будут предпочтительны, чтобы максимально эффективно вкладывать средства. Рассмотрим самые распространенные материалы для утепления.

Чем утеплить стены снаружи в частном доме, основные виды и свойства теплоизоляционных материалов

Отвечая на вопрос, чем лучше утеплить фасад дома снаружи, сначала следует ознакомится с существующими видами утеплителей их техническими характеристиками.

Основные критерии при выборе теплоизолятора – теплопроводность, экологическая чистота изолятора, паропроницаемость, на последнее место ставлю — цену. Самые популярные виды утеплителя мы рассмотрим более подробно ниже.

Пенопласт, фото

Самый распространенный способ утепления дома – это плиты пенополистирола. В странах СНГ он занимает лидирующую позицию по продажам в силу высоких технических показателей и доступности утеплителя. Среди всех вариантов утепления пенопласт считается самым дешевым. Теплоизоляционные характеристики равны 0,0033 Вт/m/K. Благодаря простоте производства его изготавливают практически по всей территории страны, что снижает себестоимость доставки.

Пенопласт представляет собой материал со вспененной структурой, где большую часть занимает газ. От этого материал очень легкий, а также обладает высокими термоизоляционными и звукоизоляционными характеристиками.

Чтобы в полной мере разобраться, чем утеплить дом снаружи стоит рассмотреть особенности теплоизолятора.

Преимущества пенопласта:

• На материал влага не имеет разрушительное воздействие, при этом он практически не впитывает воду.
• Высокие термоизоляционные характеристики.
• Пенопласт устойчив против образования на поверхности грибка и плесени.
• Простота монтажа, даже сложные формы легко обработать пенопластом благодаря строительному ножу.
• Утеплять дом материалом просто, так как не нужно рассчитывать дополнительный вес изоляции, пенопласт весит крайне мало.
• Доступная цена.
• Длительный срок эксплуатации.
• Отлично противостоит различным атмосферным явлениям – жаре, морозам и сильный перепадам температуры.
• Обладает хорошими звукоизоляционными качествами.
• Дополнительные затраты на гидроизоляцию не требуются.

Если у материала и недостатки, которые нужно учесть прежде, чем утеплить дом снаружи:

• Механическая прочность незначительная. Обязательно необходимо наносить защитный слой.
• Стены в доме перестают дышать, так как проникновение воздуха практически не происходит.
• Материал подвергается разрушению при попадании на него нитрокрасок и производных.
• Риск возгорания, когда пенопласт загорается, выделяются токсичные вещества, которые опасны для здоровья.

В целом утеплить стены снаружи пенопластом можно вполне удобно и дешево, а недостатков немного, но есть и другие варианты утепления, некоторые из них обладают более высокими качественными показателями теплосбережения.

Экструдированный пенополистирол

Экструзия – это утеплитель синтетического происхождения. В основе лежит уникальная технология, разработанная в США. Качество утеплителя настолько высокое, что многие лучшие строительные компании отдают ему предпочтение во всех сферах строительства.

Преимущества экструдированного пенополистирола:

• Теплопроводность крайне низкая.
• Паропроницаемость незначительная. Если сравнивать, то 20 мм плита обладает таким же уровнем паропроницаемости, как и 1 слой рубероида.
• Устойчив к механическим деформирующим воздействиям.
• Отлично переносит широкий диапазон температур от -50 до +75°С.
• Материал долговечный, срок эксплуатации 30 и более лет.
• Полностью экологически чистый, не выделяет вредные вещества в ходе эксплуатации.
• При намокании не теряет свои качественные показатели, что очень важно в утеплении кровли.
• Монтаж максимально простой.

Недостатки при наружном и внутреннем утеплении практически отсутствуют. Главный фактор – это горючесть, но это можно устранить, добавив в состав антипирены, хотя подобные плиты стоят несколько дороже. В этом случае он будет только тлеть, но выделение вредных веществ, все равно опасно для здоровья.

Пенополиуретан

В народе называется утепление поролоном. В быту он встречается в качестве обивки мебели, но он мягкий. В строительстве пенополиуретан жесткий. Утеплять дом снаружи поролоном можно стандартным способом – в виде плит, но в последнее время приобретает популярность напыление. Использование варианта подразумевает приготовление материала прямо на строительной площадке в виде пены. Удобно, что создается целостное покрытие, отсутствуют стыки и мостики холода.

Преимущества теплоизолятора:

• Низкий коэффициент теплопроводности. При сравнении с пенопластом показатель на 50% лучше и на 100% ниже теплопроводность, чем у минеральной ваты.
• Устойчив к проникновению влаги. Пенополиуретан лучший наружный утеплитель, чем пенопласт, так как обладает в 10 раз более низким уровнем водопоглощения.
• Высокие показатели устойчивости к температурам. Среди остальных рассмотренных ранее вариантов выдерживает самые широкие диапазоны температур, самая низкая аж до -70°С, а большая до + 110°С.
• Продолжительный срок эксплуатации. Как минимум к утеплению не будет претензий 30 лет, если его правильно монтировать, то и дольше.
• Не подвергается деформационным воздействием весь период эксплуатации.
• Устойчив к гнили и образованию грибка, что важно для наружного утепления.
• Когда утепляем пенополиуретаном создается дополнительный слой звукоизоляции, при чем довольно качественный.

На этом этапе можно назвать его лучшим утеплителем, но на самом деле недостатки также присутствуют:

• Высокая цена материала.
• Монтаж напыления довольно сложный и дорогой.
• Пенополиуретан не может использоваться для утепления домов без дополнительной защиты, так как он восприимчив к УФ облучению. Помимо простого выхода из строя, от солнца он может выделять вредные вещества.

Пенополиуретан обладает более высокими показателями, чем минвата и пенопласт, но требует больших вложений, что сужает сферы его использования.

Минеральная вата

Следующий вариант, чем лучше утеплить стены дома снаружи – это минвата. Она обладает хаотичной структурой, где волокна различной длины. Приготовляется из базальтового материала и отходов производства стекла. Бывает и шлаковая вата. Хотя перечисленные разновидности в плане теплоизоляции отличаются несущественно.

По сравнению с другими утеплителями производится в различных формах – маты, рулоны, плиты, цилиндры, россыпь. Так, все смогут подобрать подходящий вариант для себя. Чаще всего используются рулонные варианты, так как они исключают появление мостиков холода благодаря целостности конструкции. Плиты удобны для утепления вертикальным способом, так как они не поддаются деформациям. При использовании наружной системы утепления в виде каркаса можно задувать ячейки минватой.

Преимущество материала в его негорючести, может выдерживать вплоть до 1 000 °С, но не каждая разновидность. Минвата выступает противопожарной системой. При возгорании она не выделяет токсичные вещества.

Наружное утепление деревянных домов имеет свои особенности, так что большинство материалов просто не подходят для этой задачи. минвата практически единственный способ утепления таких сооружений.

Монтаж достаточно простой, может выполнять даже непрофессионал. Благодаря мягкости укладывается в любые места и легко транспортируется, не изменяя формы при изгибах. Легко разрезается строительным ножом.

Главный и, пожалуй, единственный недостаток – это впитывание влаги. При выполнении наружных работ нужно качественно защищать вату от воды. Проникновение всего 2% воды ухудшает теплоизоляционные качества материала на 10%.

Еще одна особенность – необходимость хорошей системы установки. Минеральная вата сильно осыпается, поэтому должна укладывать под слоем защиты. Также в ниже должен быть отвод влаги.

Базальтовая вата

Утепленные дома снаружи на основании базальтовой горной породы обладают экологической безопасностью, не выделяют вредных веществ даже при нагреве. Сам материал невосприимчив к горению. Утеплив один раз стену базальтовой ватой можно забыть об утеплителе на все время, так как срок эксплуатации неограничен, а по необходимости в преждевременном ремонте нет.

Базальт – это лучшее средство для утепления в сфере переносимых температур, ведь сохраняет тепло при диапазоне от -300 до +900°С.

Важное преимущество базальта заключается в том, что стена продолжает дышать, проводимость воздуха сохраняется. Благодаря описанным характеристикам базальт можно назвать одним из лучших средств, для утепления. Правда, стоимость данного утепления значительно выше, чем у пенопласта.

Способы и причины теплоизоляции наружных стен частного дома

Сегодня очень много людей, чтобы сэкономить на отоплении и сохранить в своем жилище комфортную температуру на протяжении года, стараются утеплить стены дома снаружи своими руками.

Для теплоизоляции стен причин, может быть много – это как уже говорилось выше, высокая стоимость отопления дома, недостаточный коэффициент сопротивления теплопередаче (R) стен (для каждого региона он свой), все возможные щели между окнами и стеной.

Важно помнить, что утеплять нужно наружные стены, если утеплить дом изнутри, то внешние стены не будут прогревается. В свою очередь, точка росы переместится в сторону помещения, что повлечет за собой образования конденсата и высокую влажность, а это чревато появлением грибка.

Способов, как утеплить стены снаружи в частном доме есть несколько:

1. Утеплитель приклеивается к стене на специальный клей, после чего в него забивают дюбеля и армируется сетка. Дальше идет декоративная отделка. Этот способ называется «мокрый фасад».
2. Строительство стены из трех невентилируемых слоев. Утеплитель закрепляется с помощью раствора. Затем оставляется небольшое воздушное пространство и возводится наружная стена толщиной в один кирпич.
3. Вентилируемый фасад. На гидроизоляцию монтируют теплоизолятор, после чего его закрывают ветрозащитой и зашивают сайдингом или другим материалом.

После того как вы определились, чем утеплить стены снаружи в частном доме, надо помнить, что каждый из перечисленных вариантов имеет свою технологий и особенности монтажа.

Как утеплить дом снаружи пеноплексом своими руками,  пошагова видеоинструкция

Как утеплить дом снаружи минватой, видео

Как утеплить деревянный дом снаружи своими руками, видео

Заключение

Сравнивая различные популярные утеплители, оказывается, что у каждого варианта присутствуют свои недостатки и преимущества. Поэтому во многом выбор изоляционного материала зависит от сферы применения, задач и поверхности, на которую будут наноситься утеплители. Очевидно, что ценовой вопрос также имеет место, поэтому не все отдают предпочтение более качественным, но дорогим вариантам.

Как и чем утеплить дом снаружи своими руками

Правильное утепление частного дома не только позволяет экономить на отоплении, но и продлевает срок службы здания. Неграмотный монтаж утеплителя может привести к тому, что под ним скопится влага, грибок и плесень. Это ускорит разрушение конструкции. Вариантов утепления очень много. В этой статье поговорим о наружном утеплении, правильном выборе материалов, правилах монтажа утеплителя, как правильно утеплить дом снаружи своими руками.

Достоинства наружной теплоизоляции

Утепление стен снаружи защищает их от промерзания с помощью внутреннего тепла, так как утеплитель прокладывается между стенами и облицовкой фасада. При внутренней теплоизоляции, стены постоянно подвергаются воздействию жары и холода, что ускоряет их разрушение.

На стенах не возникает конденсат, а если на них попадает вода, то она быстро испаряется.

В доме с наружным утеплением жить комфортнее и безопаснее для здоровья. Плесень и грибок в таком доме не образуются, помещения хорошо держат тепло.

Внешний монтаж утеплителя не крадёт площадь помещений, а при внутреннем утеплении придётся жертвовать полезным пространством.

Это основные причины, почему утепляют дом снаружи, а не изнутри.

«Утепление стен изнутри»

«Утепление стен снаружи»

Стены оказываются подвержены негативному воздействию низкой температуры снаружи. Тепло внутри дома не согревает их, потому что преградой тому служит сам утеплитель. Стены будут медленнее высыхать из-за скапливающегося конденсата. И тому снова будет мешать утеплитель изнутри. Постоянно образующийся конденсат, как правило, становится причиной появления плесени, грибков. А, как известно, указанные субстанции негативно влияют и на здоровье проживающих в доме людей, и портят внешний вид всего строения.

Стены, утепленные снаружи, защищены от промерзания. Внутреннее тепло позволяет обеспечить их соответствующую защиту, потому что именно между стенами и внешней средой проложен утепляющий материал. Стены не подвержены повышенному образованию конденсата. И даже при попадании влаги на их поверхность они быстро высыхают. В утепленном снаружи доме более комфортно жить, потому что плесень и грибки не образуются, а в помещениях сохраняется ценное тепло.

Популярные теплоизоляционные материалы

Для теплоизоляции зданий разработано множество материалов. Самые популярные из них:

• Пенополистирол;
• Каменная вата;
• Экструдированный пенополистирол;

У каждого из этих материалов разные значения влагостойкости и паропроницаемости. На эти значения необходимо опираться при выборе утеплителя. Так же большим значением обладает климатическая зона, где находится дом и метод крепления утеплителя, который защитит помещения от повышенной влажности. Ещё нужно учесть теплопроводность материала для расчёта толщины утепляющего слоя. Это позволит не переплатить за строительство и получить максимальный необходимый результат за минимальную стоимость.

Требования к теплоизоляционным материалам

ВПеред тем, как ехать закупаться стройматериалами, нужно прояснить, какой материал лучше подходит, соответствует ли он необходимым требованиям.

1. Прочность. Этот показатель зависит от плотности утеплителя:
1. Если используется пенополистирол, то его плотность составляет 16-18,5 кг на м3, а толщина блоков – 8 -10 см. Прочность на сжатие при линейном искривлении в 10% как минимум 100 кПа. Максимальная прочность на изгиб – 180 кПа. Максимальная прочность на растяжение, которое перпендикулярно поверхности – 100 кПа.
2. Если запланировали использовать каменную вату, то нужно использовать блоки, плотность которых составляет 45-100 кг на м3, для мокрого фасада – от 145 до 165 кг на м3.
2. Паропроницаемость. Каменная вата в этом плане лучше пенополистирола в 6 раз. Она больше подходит для штукатурного фасада, паропроницаемых оснований, таких, как: газоблок, пеноблок, керамзитбетон, а также для всех типов кирпича.
3. Теплостойкость. У минеральной ваты и пенополистирола этот показатель почти одинаковый. Каменная вата – максимум 0,0475 Вт/мК, пенополистирол – максимум 0,041 Вт/мК.
4. Минвата — не более 0,0475 Вт/мК, ППС — не более 0,041 Вт/мК
5. Стойкость к огню. Нужно брать слабогорючий или негорючий утеплитель. Каменная вата, которая состоит из базальта, здесь выигрывает, так как начинает плавиться при температуре более 1000 градусов. Пенопласт же горит при 110 градусах.
6. Вес. От этого зависит нагрузка на фундамент. Пенополистирол легче минваты в 4 раза.

Наружное утепление. Сколько слоёв должно быть и у каких материалов стен. (Расчёт толщины утеплителя)

Для этого нужно учесть множество параметров: климатические условия, материалы стен, материал утеплителя, площадь помещений, предназначение помещений и многое другое. Если вы нанимаете для утепления дома строителей, то они это сделаю сами.

Согласно современным нормативам, есть три вида конструкций внешних стен по количеству слоёв:

• Однослойные. Несущую функцию и теплоизоляцию совмещает стройматериал. В случае каменного дома это может быть поризированный крупноформатный керамический блок или пенобетон. В случае каркасного здания – СИП панели.;
• Два слоя, наружная теплоизоляция. Это самый популярный вариант как утеплить частный дом снаружи своими руками. У фасада может быть воздушная прослойка, но можно обойтись и без таковой;
• Три слоя. Стены, где внешним слоем являются материалы толщиной как минимум 50 мм, закрепленные на основании точечными соединениями. К примеру, утеплённое здание с облицовкой из кирпича. Облицовка из имитации бруса или блок-хаусом не подойдёт, так как не подходит по толщине.

Правильное наружное утепление дома

Есть три основных способа как недорого утеплить дом снаружи, в том числе и своими руками

• Вентилируемый фасад
• Мокрая теплоизоляция
• Расположение утеплителя колодезным образом

При колодезном расположении утеплителя, материал располагается внутри стен. Например, внутри слоёв кирпича или других материалов. Утеплитель в этом случае как бы замурован в стенах. Это очень эффективный метод, но о нём нужно думать на стадии проектирования.

При мокрой теплоизоляции, утеплитель крепится на стенах с помощью дюбелей. Потом на него наносят ещё несколько покрытий. В обязательном порядке делают армирующее покрытие, промежуточное, и только потом облицовку. Это хороший способ, но для его монтажа необходимы специалисты.

Преимущества штукатурного фасада

• Штукатурная теплоизоляция – один из самых недорогих вариантов утепления.
• Мокрый фасад защищает стены от внутреннего образования росы, из-за которой они могут быстро начать гнить или промерзать.
• Благодаря тому, что мокрый фасад весит немного, не нужно укреплять или менять фундамент перед его монтажом.
• Финишная отделка мокрого фасада может быть почти любой. Её можно периодически подновлять, чтобы дом всегда выглядел как новый.
• Эксплуатационный срок штукатурного фасада – 25-30 лет.
• Стены с мокрым утеплением дышат, в помещениях естественным образом поддерживается благоприятный микроклимат на протяжении всего года.
• Штукатурное утепление продлевает эксплуатационный срок стен и снижает потери тепла.
• У такого фасада отличная шумоизоляция.
• Монтаж мокрого фасада можно осуществить на любой высоте, независимо от того, из чего построен дом.

Вентилируемый фасад похож на колодезный, но здесь в качестве внешней прослойки выступает облицовка – сайдинг, имитация бруса и пр.

Как правильно монтировать утеплитель на фасад

Перед монтажом утеплителя необходимо подготовить стены, в процессе выполняют следующие виды работ:

• Подготовка к утеплению
• Демонтаж старого утеплителя
• Устранение выступов и углублений
• Очистка и грунтовка поверхности

При монтаже мокрого фасада дополнительно ставятся маяки или отвесы. Это могут быть саморезы с привязанной к ним верёвкой, которая опускается до земли так, чтобы получилась сетка.

Утепление дома (Стоит ли утеплять дом что получим на выходе)

Утеплять дом однозначно стоит. Как минимум на выходе получится экономия на отоплении, так как дом теперь лучше держит тепло, и приятный внешний вид. Так же, наружное утепление продлит срок службы здания, за счёт того, что стены не будут промерзать и на них не возникнет грибка и плесени.

Если вы решили работать самостоятельно, то лучше всего подходит навесной фасад, утеплитель которого необходимо выбирать индивидуально под каждый дом. Но лучше всего позаботиться об утеплении ещё на этапе проектирования здания.

Утепление дома нужно проводить как минимум через год после завершения строительства, чтобы здание уселось. В противном случае фасад растрескается, конструкция деформируется и появятся места с повышенным риском образования излишков влаги и плесени.

Заключение

В статье было подробно рассмотрено, как и чем недорого утеплить дом снаружи. Были описаны основные материалы утеплителей и их характеристики, способы утепления и методы монтажа фасадов, требования к материалам, подробно описано почему утепляют дом снаружи.

90000 Insulating a New House 90001 90002 If you are buying or building a new house, make sure that energy-saving features are included. The Federal Trade Commission (FTC) home insulation rule requires the seller of a new home to provide information on the type, thickness, and R-value of the insulation that will be installed in each part of the house in every sales contract. Many state or local building codes include minimum requirements for home insulation. 90003 Be sure that your new home or home addition meets these building codes.90004 You may wish to install insulation beyond the minimum specified in such codes, especially if those minimum levels are below those recommended here. Also, Energy-Efficient Mortgages are available through both government-insured and conventional loan programs. These mortgages recognize that the homeowner’s energy payments will be less for a more energy-efficient home, and therefore enable a buyer to borrow a larger sum to cover the up-front costs of improving the house’s energy efficiency.90005 90002 To keep initial selling prices competitive, many home builders offer standard (not optimal) levels of insulation, although additional insulation would be a good investment for the buyer. Builders participating in the Energy Star Program use third-party inspectors to not only ensure that the correct amount of insulation has been used, but also to ensure that it has been installed correctly. 90005 90002 It is always more economical to install the recommended levels of insulation during initial construction rather than adding insulation later.Many insulation locations are enclosed during the construction process and it is very difficult to add insulation to these locations at a later time. 90005 90002 Now is also the time to make your home air tight. Special products and techniques are available to eliminate air leaks between the walls and floor and between the walls and ceiling. Encourage your builder to make all clearances around doors and windows as tight as possible and to properly caulk and seal all such joints. 90005 90002 90003 Where and How Much? 90004 90005 90002 Figure 1 shows which building spaces should be insulated.Discuss the house plans with your builder, and make sure each of these spaces is properly insulated to the R-values ​​recommended here. Remember to buy the insulation based on this R-value, and to check the product label to determine the insulation’s proper thickness, especially if you plan to install it in a confined space, such as in wall cavities and cathedral ceilings. 90005 90002 Figure 2 shows the Department of Energy’s climate zones, along with a short summary of our insulation recommendations for new houses.These recommendations are based on comparing your future energy savings to the current cost of installing insulation. A range is shown for many locations for these reasons: 90005 90020 90021 Energy costs vary greatly over each zone. 90022 90021 Installed insulation costs vary greatly over each zone. 90022 90021 Heating and cooling equipment efficiency varies from house to house. 90022 90021 Our best estimate of future energy costs may not be exactly correct. 90022 90029 90002 So, how should you decide how much insulation to install? 90005 90002 The future energy savings, of course, depends upon how much energy costs in the future.Our best estimate is that fuel costs will rise at approximately the same rate as general inflation. If you think that fuel costs will increase more than that, you should install the greater amount of insulation shown. Looking at the map, if you think the energy costs in your area are greater than energy costs for other locations in same climate zone, you should install the greater amount of insulation. 90005 90002 We can also give you better guidance for your specific location and recommendations for other insulation locations in your home.The ZIP-Code calculator will actually let you enter your own insulation prices, energy costs, and heating and cooling system efficiencies. However, some computer security systems will not allow Java programs to run properly. The recommended R-values ​​table can be helpful in those cases, because it will provide recommendations based on insulation and energy costs for your local area. 90005 90002 Both insulative sheathing and cavity insulation are specified for walls because it is important to use them together as a system.Any combination of sheathing and cavity insulation shown in Figure 2 will give you a similar life-cycle savings. 90005 90002 The band joists, or outside edges of the floor frames, should be insulated while the house is under construction. For most of the country, you should try to install R-30 in this location. If you live in Climate Zone 1, R-19 is adequate. More detailed drawings and insulation techniques for the band joist are shown in the Wall Insulation Technology Fact Sheet.90005 90040 90002 Foundation insulation options for new construction are broader than for existing homes. The builder may, for example, choose to insulate the exterior of a basement or crawlspace wall. You should discuss termite inspection and control options with your builder when choosing your foundation insulation method. Special sill plate (the joint between the top of the foundation and the bottom of the house frame) mineral fiber sealing products are designed to reduce air leaks if installed during the initial house construction.All flammable insulations or insulation facings must be covered or otherwise protected to meet fire codes. More information is given in the Basement Insulation Technology Fact Sheet. 90005 90002 If water lines and the ducts of your heating or air-conditioning system run through unheated or uncooled spaces, such as attic or crawlspaces, then the water lines and the ducts should be insulated. Make sure your contractor checks the ductwork for air leaks before installing the duct insulation.The contractor should then wrap the ducts with duct wrap insulation of R-6 with a vapor retarder facing on the outer side. All joints where sections of insulation meet should have overlapped facings and be tightly sealed with fiber glass tape; but avoid compressing the insulation, thus reducing its thickness and R-value. 90005 90002 Return air ducts are more likely to be located inside the heated portion of the house where they do not need to be insulated, but they should still be sealed off from air passageways that connect to unheated areas.Drywall- to-ductwork connections should be inspected because they are often poor (or nonexistent) and lead to unwanted air flows through wall cavities. 90005 90002 90003 Air Sealing 90004 90005 90002 Air sealing is important, not only because drafts are uncomfortable, but also because air leaks carry both moisture and energy, usually in the direction you do not want. For example, air leaks can carry hot humid outdoor air into your house in the summer, or can carry warm moist air from a bathroom into the attic in the winter.90005 90002 Most homeowners are aware that air leaks into and out of their houses through small openings around doors and window frames and through fireplaces and chimneys. Air also enters the living space from other unheated parts of the house, such as attics, basements, or crawlspaces. The air travels through: 90005 90020 90021 any openings or cracks where two walls meet, where the wall meets the ceiling, or near interior door frames; 90022 90021 gaps around electrical outlets, switch boxes, and recessed fixtures; 90022 90021 gaps behind recessed cabinets, and furred or false ceilings such as kitchen or bathroom soffits; 90022 90021 gaps around attic access hatches and pull-down stairs; 90022 90021 behind bath tubs and shower stall units; 90022 90021 through floor cavities of finished attics adjacent to unconditioned attic spaces; 90022 90021 utility chaseways for ducts, etc., And 90022 90021 plumbing and electrical wiring penetrations. 90022 90029 90002 These leaks between the living space and other parts of the house are often much greater than the obvious leaks around windows and doors. Since many of these leakage paths are driven by the tendency for warm air to rise and cool air to fall, the attic is often the best place to stop them. 90074 90003 It’s important to stop these leaks before installing attic insulation because the insulation may hide them and make them less accessible.90004 90077 Usually, the attic insulation itself will not stop these leaks and you will not save as much as you expect because of the air flowing through or around the insulation. 90005 90002 There are several fact sheets that will help you stop these air leaks: 90005 90002 When natural ventilation has been sharply reduced, as in a more energy-efficient house, it may be necessary to provide fresh air ventilation to avoid build-up of stale air and indoor air pollutants. Special air-to-air heat exchangers, or heat-recovery ventilators, are available for this purpose.It is also possible to incorporate a supply of fresh outside air into your heating and cooling system. This arrangement can be used to create a slightly higher pressure inside your home, which will prevent uncontrolled outside air infiltration into your home. For more details on this arrangement, see “Integration with forced-air heating and air-conditioning systems” in the Whole-House Ventilation Systems Technology Fact Sheet. 90005 90002 90003 Moisture Control and Ventilation 90004 90005 90002 We talk about moisture control in an insulation fact sheet because wet insulation does not work well.Also, insulation is an important part of your building envelope system, and all parts of that system must work together to keep moisture from causing damage to the structure or being health hazards to the occupants. For example, mold and mildew grow in moist areas, causing allergic reactions and damaging buildings. 90005 90002 Moisture can enter your home during the construction process. The building materials can get wet during construction due to rain, dew, or by lying on the damp ground.Concrete walls and foundations release water steadily as they continue to cure during the first year after a home is built. During the house’s first winter, this construction moisture may be released into the building at a rate of more than two gallons per day, and during the second winter at a slower rate of about one gallon per day. You may need to use dehumidifiers during this initial time period. 90005 90002 90003 When Is Moisture a Problem? 90004 90005 90002 Rain water can leak into your wall cavities if the windows are not properly flashed during installation.Also, when moist air touches a cold surface, some of the moisture may leave the air and condense, or become liquid. If moisture condenses inside a wall, or in your attic, you will not be able to see the water, but it can cause a number of problems. 90005 90002 Four Things You Can Do to Avoid Moisture Problems: 90005 90099 90021 90003 Control liquid water. 90004 Rain coming through a wall, especially a basement or crawlspace wall, may be less apparent than a roof leak, especially if it is a relatively small leak and the water remains inside the wall cavity.Stop all rain-water paths into your home by: 90020 90021 Use a Weather-Resistive Barrier. 90022 90021 Caulk around all your windows and doors. 90022 90021 Direct all water coming off your roof away from your house by sloping the soil around your house so that water flows away from your house. 90022 90021 Use wide overhangs to keep the rain away from your walls and windows. 90022 90021 Use large gutters and gutter guards to help keep rain from dripping onto the ground near the house.90022 90029 Be sure that the condensate from your air conditioner is properly drained away from your house. You should also be careful that watering systems for your lawn or flower beds do not spray water on the side of your house or saturate the ground near the house. It is also a good idea to check the caulking around your tub or shower to make sure that water is not leaking into your walls or floors. 90022 90021 90003 Ventilate. 90004 You need to ventilate your home because you and your family generate moisture when you cook, shower, do laundry, and even when you breathe.More than 99% of the water used to water plants eventually enters the air. If you use an unvented natural gas, propane, or kerosene space heater, all the products of combustion, including water vapor, are exhausted directly into your living space. This water vapor can add up to 5 to 15 gallons of water per day to the air inside your home. If your clothes dryer is not vented to the outside, or if the outdoor vent is closed off or clogged, all that moisture will enter your living space.Just by breathing and perspiring, a typical family adds about 3 gallons of water per day to their indoor air. You especially need to vent your kitchen and bathrooms. Be sure that these vents go directly outside, and not to your attic, where the moisture can cause problems. Remember that a vent does not work unless you turn it on; so select quieter models that you are more likely to use. If your attic is ventilated, it is important that you never cover or block attic vents with insulation.Take care to prevent loose-fill insulation from clogging attic vents by using baffles or rafter vents. These baffles also serve to keep the outside air from penetrating into the insulation. When you think about venting to remove moisture, you should also think about where the replacement air will come from, and how it will get into your house. For more information about controlled ventilation, see the Whole-House Ventilation Systems Technology Fact Sheet. 90022 90021 90003 Stop Air Leaks.90004 It is very important to seal up all air-leakage paths between your living spaces and other parts of your building structure. Measurements have shown that air leaking into walls and attics carries significant amounts of moisture. Remember that if any air is leaking through electrical outlets or around plumbing connections into your wall cavities, moisture is carried along the same path. The same holds true for air moving through any leaks between your home and the attic, crawlspace, or garage.Even very small leaks in duct work can carry large amounts of moisture, because the airflow in your ducts is much greater than other airflows in your home. This is especially a problem if your ducts travel through a crawlspace or attic, so be sure to seal these ducts properly (and keep them sealed!). Return ducts are even more likely to be leaky, because they often involve joints between drywall and ductwork that may be poorly sealed, or even not sealed at all. 90022 90021 90003 Plan a moisture escape path.90004 Typical attic ventilation arrangements are one example of a planned escape path for moisture that has traveled from your home’s interior into the attic space. Cold air almost always contains less water than hot air, so diffusion usually carries moisture from a warm place to a cold place. You can let moisture escape from a wall cavity to the dry outdoors during the winter, or to the dry indoors during the summer, by avoiding the use of vinyl wall coverings or low-perm paint. You can also use a dehumidifier to reduce moisture levels in your home, but it will increase your energy use and you must be sure to keep it clean to avoid mold growth.If you use a humidifier for comfort during the winter months, be sure that there are no closed-off rooms where the humidity level is too high. 90022 90002 90003 Should you use vapor retarders? 90004 90005 90002 Moisture can travel from the ground through the foundation and up into your walls, and through slab floors into your home. 90003 So your builder should always include a vapor retarder between the foundation and the walls. 90004 Should you include a vapor retarder in your wall? If so, where? If the outside air is colder and drier than the inside of a home, then moisture from inside the warm house will try to diffuse through the walls and ceiling toward the cold, dry outside air.If the outside air is hot and humid, then moisture from outside will try to diffuse through the walls toward the dry, air-conditioned inside air. We used to tell people to install vapor retarders to try and stop this moisture diffusion. But we have learned that if moisture moves both ways for significant parts of the year, you’re better off not using a vapor retarder in the walls at all. 90005 90002 90003 Installation Issues 90004 90005 90002 Your builder will most likely hire a subcontractor to install the insulation in your new home.However, it is a good idea to educate yourself about proper installation methods because an improper installation can reduce your energy savings. 90005 90142 Insulation Installation Precautions 90143 90020 90021 Wear clothing adequate to protect against skin contact and irritation. A long-sleeved shirt with collar and cuffs buttoned, gloves, hat, glasses, and disposable dust respirator are advisable in all do-it-yourself insulation projects. Also, read the label and follow all the manufacturer’s directions.90022 90021 Do not cover or hand-pack insulation around bare stove pipes, electrical fixtures, motors, or any heat-producing equipment such as recessed lighting fixtures. If you pack insulation around these heat-producting locations, the heat can build up, leading to fire. Electrical fire-safety codes prohibit the installation of thermal insulation within three inches of a recessed fixture enclosure, wiring compartment, or ballast, or above the fixture so that it will trap heat and prevent free circulation of air, unless the fixture is identified by label as suitable for insulation to be in direct contact with the fixture.THIS IS FOR FIRE SAFETY. 90022 90021 Do not cover attic vents with insulation. Proper ventilation must be maintained to avoid overheating in summer and moisture build-up all year long. 90022 90029 90002 90003 Attics 90004 90005 90002 For blown-in loose fill insulation, each bag of insulating material using by the contractor should be marked with an R-value for the area to be covered. Although these figures may differ among manufacturers, the area figure will tell you the right number of bags to be used.Similarly, packages of other types of insulatino should be identified by their R-value. It is important that you check that the proper amount is installed in your residence. Ask the contractor to attach vertical rulers to the joists prior to a loose-fill installation in your attic to help you see that the proper depth was installed. Also, the installer must provide a signed and dated statement describing the insulation installed, stating thickness, coverage area, R-value, and number of bags installed.In some areas, infrared thermography services are offered to help discover any gaps in the insulation. 90005 90002 In some houses, it is easier to get complete coverage of the attic floor with blown-in loose-fill insulation. Loose-fill insulation must be prevented from shifting into vents or from contacting heat-producing equipment (such as recessed lighting fixtures) by using baffles or retainers. 90005 90002 If batts or rolls are used, the first layer should be fit between the joists.The second layer should be placed perpendicular to the first because that will help to cover the tops of the joists themselves and reduce thermal bridging through the frame. Also, be sure to insulate the trap or access door. Although the area of ​​the door is small, an uninsulated attic door will reduce energy savings substantially. 90005 90002 To be effective, Reflective Systems must be installed according to the manufacturer’s instructions. 90005 90002 Radiant barriers may be installed in attics in several configurations.The radiant barrier is most often attached near the roof, to the bottom surface of the attic truss chords or to the rafter framing. A radiant barrier should never be placed on top of your insulation or on the attic floor because it will soon be covered with dust and will not work. A separate DOE fact sheet is available for radiant barriers to show which parts of the country are most likely to benefit from this type of system. 90005 90002 90003 Walls 90004 90005 90170 90171 90002 When batt insulation is installed, it is fit between the wood frame studs, according to the manufacturer’s instructions.The batts must be carefully cut to fit around obstructions, such as window frames, pipes, wires, and electrical boxes with no gaps. 90005 90020 90021 Do not compress the insulation to fit behind pipes or wires. Instead cut to the middle of the batt’s thickness so you have one flap under the pipe or wire and the other flap over the pipe or wire. 90022 90021 One common mistake is to leave narrow places between close-spaced wall studs uninsulated. Even though these spaces may look like a very small part of the wall, small uninsulated areas can greatly reduce the insulation performance of the whole wall.Strips of insulation should be cut off and stuffed into such tight spaces by hand. 90022 90021 The kraft paper or foil vapor retarder facings on many blanket insulation products must be covered with gypsum or interior paneling because of fire considerations. 90022 90029 90002 Blown-in cellulose or spray foam can be used to fill wall cavities. Both of these products can do a good job of filling in the space around wires and other obstructions and in filling any oddly-shaped areas.For cellulose, some form of netting is used to hold the cellulose in place until the drywall is installed. For spray-foam, it is important that the application be finished off neatly to avoid problems with the drywall installation. 90005 90002 Masonry walls should be insulated on the exterior surface. 90005 90142 Design Options 90143 90002 90003 Design Option: Crawlspaces and Slabs 90004 90005 90002 Many building codes presently require installation of crawlspace vents to provide ventilation with outside air, but there is no compelling technical basis for crawlspace ventilation requirements.If the crawlspace is vented, the floor should be insulated and any pipes or ducts in the crawlspace should be insulated as well. In some climates, pipes in vented crawlspaces must also be wrapped with heat trace wires to avoid frozen pipes. If the crawlspace is not vented, it is crucial that all of the crawlspace ground area be covered with a durable vapor retarder, such as heavy-weight polyethylene film. (This is also a good practice for vented crawlspaces.) For unvented crawlspaces, the insulation should be placed on the inside wall of the crawlspace 90074 instead of 90077 under the floor above.The insulation should also extend a few feet over the ground surface inside the crawlspace, lying on top of the durable vapor retarder. For the unvented arrangement, the air within the crawlspace is actually incorporated as a part of the conditioned space within the house, as if it were a basement. The Crawlspace Insulation Technology Fact Sheet gives more details about this design option. If you choose a slab foundation, be sure to follow the recommendations for insulation installation and moisture control found in the Slab Insulation Technology Fact Sheet.90005 90002 90003 Design Option: Advanced Wall Framing 90004 90005 90002 Advanced wall framing techniques can be used that will reduce the energy losses through the walls with little or no additional costs. Details are given in the Wall Insulation Technology Fact Sheet. 90005 90002 90003 Design Option: Metal Framing 90004 90005 90002 Some new homes are built using metal frames instead of wood. Such frames are not susceptible to insect problems that can damage wood-framed structures.However, when you insulate a metal-framed building, it is important to recognize that much more heat flows through metal studs and joists than through pieces of wood. Because of this difference, placing insulation just between the wall studs, or just between attic or floor joists, does not work as well for metal-framed houses as it does for wood-framed houses. If your walls have metal frames, you will need to place continuous insulative sheathing over the outside of the wall frame, between the metal framing pieces and your exterior siding in addition to insulating the space between the studs.(Note that this insulative sheathing can not take the place of plywood or other seismic bracing.) If your attic has metal joists, you may want to place rigid foam insulation between the joists and the ceiling drywall and to cover the attic joists with insulation to the extent possible. 90005 90002 90003 Design Option: Insulating Concrete Forms 90004 90005 90002 Insulating concrete forms can be used to construct walls for new homes. These special concrete walls come in a variety of configurations and can provide additional thermal mass to your home to help reduce the effect of outdoor temperature swings.90005 90002 90003 Design Option: Massive Walls 90004 90005 90002 The most common house type in this country is the light-construction frame house. Massive walls are less common, and include buildings made from concrete, concrete block, and log. These buildings will use less energy than wood-frame construction in many parts of the country because they can store heat from the daytime sun to provide needed heat at night, or can cool down at night to reduce air-conditioning loads during the day.Research shows that such massive wall systems perform best if the insulation is located on the outside of the wall. See the ZipCode Calculator or the ZipCode table to find out how much insulation you should use. 90005 90002 90003 Design Option: Structural Insulated Panels 90004 90005 90002 Structural insulated panels can be used to construct a house. These panels sandwich plastic foam insulation between two layers of a wood or composite product, thus eliminating the need for structural wood framing members.These systems save energy in two ways, first by reducing the heat losses that would have gone through the wood frame, and second by reducing air leaks. Both of these changes represent significant energy savings. Just stopping the energy flowing through the wall framing could save 25% of the wall’s energy losses. 90005 90002 90003 Design Option: External Insulation Finish System 90004 90005 90002 Some homes are built with an External Insulation Finish System that gives a stucco-like appearance.In the past, there were quality control problems where poor construction led to water leaks into the wall system, usually around window frames. Newer versions of the external insulation finish system have been designed to be more robust and to allow any water entering through a construction defect to drain harmlessly out of the wall. This system can be used to finish wood-framed, metal-framed, and masonry walls. It offers special advantages for the metal-framed and masonry walls because the continuous external insulation layer optimizes the thermal performance of both of those two wall systems.90005 90232 90233.90000 How to insulate the hozblok with your own hands (warming shed) | With Your Hands 90001 90002 You can dispose of the barn in different ways. 90003 90002 Some will divide the chickens in it, others will equip the workshop, and one that will work in it even in the winter. And in that, and in another case, the utility room will have to be insulated from the inside. Let’s consider some variants. 90003 90006 Clay and straw 90007 90008 90002 90010 We stuff shingles 90011 90003 90002 This method – the most budgetary and eco-friendly – has been known since time immemorial.To begin with, over the whole area of ​​the walls we will fill the diagonals (at an angle of 45 °) with wooden slats. Shingles are fastened with nails with an interval of 40-45 mm. Next, we mount the slats with the second layer – perpendicular to the first, at the same angle. The result is a wooden frame with diamond-shaped empty cells. The size of each cell is 45 x 45 mm. The top layer is packed in such a way that the nails are located at the intersection of the upper and lower rails. 90003 90015 90002 Reference by topic: House of Saman with their own hands 90003 90015 90002 90010 Making an Adobe 90011 90003 90002 Now you need to prepare an adobe – clay solution, reinforced with straw or sawdust.Place the clay in a conventional metal bucket (10 L) or into a trough and start adding water to it in small portions. After each serving, we will stir the solution, achieving a homogeneous mass. Water pour until the solution takes a creamy appearance. Then add the straw to the mixture. 90003 90002 Any one will do – fresh or even last year, the main thing is that it should be of good quality, free of mold and rot. If there are problems with the straw, you can use sawdust, which is easy to buy for small money in any sawmill or construction market.The material is added to the eye, as a result, a thick mixture should be obtained, similar in consistence to liquid cement. 90003 90002 90003 90002 It is not necessary to use a separate capacity – in the warm season, it is possible to plant adobe on the street. To do this, we will build a small piece of land with a waterproof film. In the center of the site we will form a clay hill, in the middle of which we will make a depression. We pour water in there and once we mix the composition with our feet (alas, the work is dirty).Then add the soaked straw beforehand. The approximate proportion is 14-16 kg of straw (or sawdust) per 1 m 90030 2 90031 clay. Again, carefully stir. Saman is ready. 90003 90015 90002 See also: Fence – the construction of a bath or a household unit using this technology with their own hands 90003 90015 90002 90010 We apply the solution 90011 90003 90002 So, we begin to warm the walls. We apply the adobe solution to the prepared crate from the wooden shingles. We throw clay mixture over the racks and inside the cells, and then level it with a spatula.The solution is thrown from below and further up the wall. The thickness of the layer should be 4-7 cm, but no more, otherwise the material may become very chapped in the future. Now let the walls dry, which can take several days. If somewhere there are still small cracks, we will coat them with a solution, which we stir from clay and sand in the proportion 1: 2. At the final stage, we cover the surface of the walls with damp lime. 90003 90006 Polyfoam and mineral wool 90007 90008 90002 90010 Mount the frame 90011 90003 90002 This technique is more expensive, because you will have to purchase cheap materials.But it is not very laborious and it will not take much time to implement it. First of all, we glue the walls with a vapor barrier film, on top of which we will assemble a frame made of wooden bars. Also suitable and metal profile for gypsum cardboard. And more reliable solution, of course, will be elements of metal. The distance between the metal bars or bars should be 2-3 cm less than the width of the mineral wool plates, and the depth of the cells corresponds to the thickness of the thermal insulation.90003 90002 90003 90002 90010 We mount a heater 90011 90003 90002 Now, when the frame is ready, we put in it padded plates. They will be held in it in a natural way due to compression on both sides. If one of the plates is slightly larger than necessary, and does not fit in the cell of the billet – gently prunem it with a knife. However, it is also possible to use foam blocks. It is good in that, unlike cotton wool, it does not pass through and does not accumulate moisture, but without steam insulation it still can not be avoided.The foam should be mounted on a special adhesive compound. For additional fixing, it is recommended to use bowl dowels. The methods described also insulate the ceiling. 90003 90002 90010 We fasten the cladding 90011 90003 90002 As a finishing finish, we coat the frame with a heater with any sheet material – plywood, OSB-boards or chipboard. To make the surface look more aesthetic, it can be painted. 90003 90006 We heat the floor 90007 90008 90002 90010 Ground and clay 90011 90003 90002 It often happens that there is no floor covering in the shed and only bare earth under your feet.In this case, for warming the floor, it is easiest to use improvised materials, for example the same clay and soil. You can accumulate both, on your own site or near the nearest river. We will sketch a layer of soil not less than 10 cm above the old earthen floor. After this, we will make a mound of clay and how to do it. If the room is supposed to hold chickens, then you have to throw in the sawdust, and put straw on top. 90003 90002 90010 Expanded clay and cement 90011 90003 90002 The advantage of this method is that the floor will always be flat and clean.We stack the expanded clay fill, level it, and from above we make a sand-cement screed. This process is very time-consuming, and its execution will require building skills. But while it is no longer necessary to mess with the ground on the floor. 90003 90002 © Author: Sergey Vasilyev 90003 90083 90084 TOOLS FOR MASTERS AND MASTERS, AND HOME GOODS ARE VERY CHEAP. FREE SHIPPING. THERE ARE REVIEWS. 90085 90086 90087 Below other entries on the topic “How to make your own hands – a householder!” 90088 90089 Canopy of polycarbonate with your own hands – for benches How to make a polycarbonate awning for… 90090 90089 Drawings of a shed for construction by own hands Multi-purpose barn with your own hands -… 90090 90089 Useful tips and ideas – release of 20 Useful folk advice for home … 90090 90089 How to warm a house using foam and clay WARMING OF THE HOUSE FOAM PLASTIC AND CLAY. .. 90090 90089 Device for folding clothes do it yourself COMFORTABLE FOLDING CLOTHING DEVICE To … 90090 90089 Ideas with your own hands for storing magazine files + drilling template Devices for storage of a filing of the beloved… 90090 90089 Warming of the floors of the house How to insulate floors in the house … 90015 90103 Subscribe to updates in our groups and share. 90088 90103 Let’s be friends! 90088 90090.90000 How to Build Cold Room With Own Hands 90001 In this article, you will know how to solve the problem with the selection and installation of a cold storage chamber for needs of your business. And also you can use these tips if you will need a large cooling chamber (from 4 cubic meters or 141 cubic foot) for a residential house. 90002 90003 The refrigerated chamber for storage of meat, vegetables and fruits, dairy and other products can be made without resorting to the help of specialists, but only in some simple cases.90004 90003 90006 There are three main ways: 90007 90004 90009 90010 To buy a finished prefabricated cold room; 90011 90010 To collect it from the heat-insulated sandwich panels; 90011 90010 To upgrade the existing warehouse. 90011 90016 After completing the chamber, you must install the refrigeration equipment to maintain the desired temperature. Installing the equipment without the involvement of qualified personnel is difficult to perform; the only available option for such self-installation is a refrigeration monoblock (storage temperature is about 0: +5 90017 0 90018 С, +32: +41 90017 0 90018 F) or a freezer monoblock (-15: -25 90017 0 90018 С, +5: -15 90017 0 90018 F).90003 90026 90027 90004 90029 90006 1. Prefabricate-Demountable Refrigeration Chambers 90007 90032 This is the easiest and fastest way to get a finished camera. The prefabricated chamber is a set of ready, heat-insulating sandwich panels with polyurethane filler with the special fastening of straight and corner junctures. In addition, such a chamber can be demounted and installed in a new location. The camera kit already includes a swing door. It remains to be determined the volume, the dimensions that you want to need and order it from one of the dealers of the manufacturer.Such a camera is not difficult to gather with the help of 2-3 people without special qualification. Prefabricated chambers are divided into two types, different in the connection type of the panels to each other: 90033 90010 profile plastic chambers with spike-groove joints (commonly called the ‘dovetail fastening’), 90011 90010 lock chambers (an eccentric lock, building into the sandwich panel). 90011 90038 These cameras with built-in eccentric locks provide a rigid fixed coupling of the panels among themselves, withstanding multiple assembly and disassembly.Chambers with spike-groove joints are cheaper, but require the using of sealants at the joints. And the plastic fastening is less rigid to the panels. Owing to this, such chambers rarely occur in width / length more than 2-3m. The price of a prefabricated camera will probably be somewhat larger than in two subsequent variants. However, it is an easy and fast way to access a good quality size, without the “bridges” of cold. 90003 90006 2. Fitting of Sandwich Panels 90007 90042 You can make a chamber by yourself out of the panels of the constructive type.In this case, you need to calculate a quantity of panels and their length which you want to buy. Their width varies from 1100 to 1200 mm in different manufacturers. Based on this information and also the dimensions of the planned chamber, calculate the number and length of panels for your purchase. The assembly process itself, method of fastening the straight and angled joints you can specify in the documentation of the manufacturer you choose. 90004 90003 90045 90004 90003 When mounting the panels, it is necessary to avoid the formation of “thermal bridges” at the corner joints when the inner and outer metal shells fall into their contact.To prevent the appearance of a thermal bridge, it is necessary to make its “rupture”, made a slit in the inner metal skin of the corner panel, in the part that “exits” to the outside of the chamber. Similarly, it is necessary to do within the corner joints of wall panels with the floor and ceiling panels. In the chambers with a storage temperature above zero, the floor is sometimes left without the thermal insulation. This simplifies the drive of used loading equipment (rollers, trolleys), saves money for the purchase of the thermal insulation materials, but at the same time requires the installation of refrigeration equipment with a higher capacity (about 20%) and, accordingly, leads with approximately the same increase in the electricity consumption.Also, it is necessary to perform an “operation” for breaking the “thermal bridge”, if you mount a multi-section chamber with different temperature regimes. It is necessary to cut through the inner metal covering of the walls, floor and ceiling at the installation site of the partition, tearing the thermal bridge between the sections. So, you will need to purchase the finishing accessories (batten, angle profile) for fixing corner joints of the panels, a sealant and a door of desired size. The door is also needed special, refrigeration with the thermal insulation made of polyurethane foam.Some producers of sandwich panels deal with the manufacturing of doors, and there are companies specializing in the production of doors only. 90004 90029 90006 3. Reconstruction of the premise 90007 90032 And the last option, often the cheapest, but not always eventually profitable, is the reconstruction of a warehouse or a room. These rooms can be made refrigerated by carrying out the thermal insulation of the walls. It can be made from the polyurethane foam sandwich panels, described in the previous point.In this version, these panels are fixed to the walls and ceiling of the premise with the help of fasteners. However, the metal fasteners will form many “thermal bridges”, which can lead to the formation of condensation and further rusting in the attachment points. Therefore, it is desirable to use fasteners made of the heat-insulating materials, for example, polyamide studs. But this option is more expensive and it is harder to work with it. The insulation can also be made of expanded polystyrene boards (PBP, foam plastic), urethane-foam mates (without metal sheathing), and also by foam polyurethane insulation spraying on the walls and ceilings.In these cases, it is necessary to insulate the thermal insulation layer with metal sheathing for mechanical protection and hygienic requirements. But this work is laborious and the result leaves much to be desired. It is much easier to use prefabricated panels. The option of thermal insulation of the walls, although it may be the cheapest, but does not guarantee the high-quality thermal insulation, and can also cause claims of the inspection bodies due to the non-compliance with hygienic requirements.When choosing a premise, it is necessary to take into account some features of storage for various food products and non-food items requiring cooling. Read more about cold rooms for flowers and cold-storage chamber for meat products in next our articles. 90029 90006 90042 90007 90032 90029 90006 Read more 90007 90032 Refrigeration compressors 90042 Classification of refrigeration systems 90042 Refrigeration Units 90042 Refrigeration Doors 90003 90004 90029 Find supplier company or brand of refrigeration equipment on our online directory.90032 .90000 The device of the toilet in the country with their own hands without VOC or water supply – drawing | With Your Hands 90001 90002 I decided to share my proposal on the arrangement of civilized toilets in the absence of running water and sewerage or only sewerage. Of course, for cottages or expensive houses used in these cases, septic tanks, expensive sanitation facilities, but most all sorts of courtyard “amenities” are not protected from unpleasant odors and the presence of flies in the summer.Another disadvantage is the distance from houses, and in winter it is still snow and frost. 90003 90002 However, it is possible to arrange built-in, attached or separately standing normal toilets, equipped with toilet bowls with flushing cisterns. I propose a technical solution for such toilets, protected from unpleasant odors, manure flies, frosts and various other troubles. 90003 90002 What are the features of the proposed project in the absence of external water supply and sewage networks or in the absence of only sewage? 90003 90002 The main feature is the lack of a typical or other expensive device septic tank.The internal layout of the built-in or attached toilet room can be similar to the generally accepted city-type toilets in multi-storey houses – both combined and separate with a bath or shower room. 90003 90002 In the absence of a water pipe, an additional installation will be required above the toilet (or elsewhere) of the container (barrel or can) of liters on 40-60. 90003 90002 The container is connected to the flush toilet bowl with a hose (pipe). If there is a water supply, an additional capacity is not required.90003 90014 90002 See also: A shed at the dacha with their own hands 90003 90014 90002 Taking into account the soil’s ability to self-filter and self-absorbing, a storage tank (a sewer well), a prototype of a mini-septic tank, where fecal effluents will flow, is arranged. 90003 90002 Sewer well can be made even from the metal used barrel liters on 200, necessarily with the presence of a number of holes in the wall and the bottom. 90003 90002 You can make a well from brickwork in a padded field or with the use of perforated ceramic bricks (on an edge).90003 90002 In any case, the well must be closed with a removable cover. 90003 90002 Arrangement of a sewage well with connection of a sewage pipe, overflow pipe installation, ventilation, etc. is a separate conversation. The presence of groundwater and its level from the surface of the soil is not a complicating condition. It is advisable to place a sewage well not closer than 1,5-2 m from the house. 90003 90002 For the use of sewerage in winter (in heated houses and toilets), it is necessary to insulate the sewer outside pipe and the well itself.90003 90002 The approximate period of filling the sewage well with feces in a solid state is 200 L, if the toilet is used by 4-5 people, not less than 15-20 years, after which it will be necessary to clean or replace it with a new well. 90003 90014 90002 See also: Summer shower at the cottage with your own hands – how to do, photos 90003 90014 90002 Sewer well can also be used for sewage from washbasins, bathtubs, showers, etc. According to environmental and operational parameters, my version in comparison with existing types of toilets is much better.In addition, it does not require highly qualified specialists. 90003 90002 In the absence of external water supply networks, it is possible to arrange an individual well or a well with water intake by a pump and feeding it to a pre-installed vessel in the form of an 200-liter barrel or other container, for example in an attic, roof or elsewhere. 90003 90002 My summer cottage has a built-in toilet, as well as a sink and a sink in the kitchen. There is a water pipe with a water barrel installed in the attic.The water is withdrawn from the well by a pump. 90003 90002 Everything works fine. Outflow (overflow) of runoff from the sewer to the surface was not observed during the entire operation. Unpleasant smells and dung flies are absent. The difference compared to the usual “toilet” – a huge. 90003 90044 Drawings of homemade toilet 90045 90002 90003 90048 90049 In the figure, the numbers indicate: 90050 90003 90048 90049 1 – WC 2 – flushing barrel 3 – additional capacity 90050 90003 90014 90057 Toilet in the dacha with their own hands – summer residents share their experiences 90058 90014 90060 Toilet do it yourself for a penny 90045 90002 Many gardeners, truck farmers who come to the dacha only on weekends, use a so-called powder closet as a toilet, where waste is collected in a bucket and processed with peat or sawdust in the same place.A few years and I have successfully used it (photo 1 and 2). However, the XXI century in the yard, it’s time to take advantage of the benefits of civilization. And I got down to business. I started with the construction of a drain tank: I dug a hole 2 m deep and piled into it a stack of old tires with a diameter of 17 inches (photo 3). 90003 90002 There is one trick: in the center of the bottom, a hole with a depth of 1,5 m penetrated the hand hole and inserted into it a perforated plastic pipe with a diameter of 110 mm, wrapped with cover material, so as not to silt the holes.90003 90002 And I got a good drainage, for the whole season in the cesspool practically nothing accumulated, although the soil at the bottom is solid clay. In the cesspool, closer to the surface, inserted a drain plastic pipe (in the photo 3 it is visible). In the future I will make another such pit next to each other, I will connect them with each other, I will have a full septic tank. In shops such constructions cost a lot of money, and I will almost get rid of expenses. 90003 90002 Well, under the toilet itself I adapted the old building standing next to the cesspool, from the inside it ennobled its interior: the walls were paneled from old cabinets, the floor covered with linoleum, installed a washbasin, a toilet, hung a fashion mirror (4 and 5).Outside, he made the water supply from the water tank and the drain to the sewage pit (photo 6). 90003 90002 The only drawback of all this charm is that in the winter you can not enjoy the benefits of civilization. Water from the water supply system must be drained and the toilet should be freed from water. Therefore, the structure depicted in the photo 1, just in case, I do not understand. 90003 90002 Vladimir SILAKOV. Vladimir 90003 90014 90060 “Pensive house” with his own hands 90045 90002 When we began to develop our site, this secluded building was erected simultaneously with the bathhouse.During the construction all sanitary norms were observed. But we (I think, and many other summer residents) the back yard, where the toilet is located, is adjacent to the front part of the neighbor’s house. I hope that our still small garden trees will eventually close it from other people’s (and, perhaps, condemning) views. Meanwhile, next to the toilet landed a Jerusalem artichoke, whose stems reach a height of about 2 m and have thick foliage. 90003 90002 The very design of the street toilet is quite simple: a pit of depth 1,5 m, lined with boards from the inside, and above it – a light house made of lumber and boards, covered with an iron sheet.Since we use it only in the summer, the volume of the cesspool should be enough for a long time. When it is full, we will simply dig a new one in another place, move our house there, and put the old pit in the ground and densely pound it. 90003 90002 I also want to share simple tricks with readers, which make it possible to increase the comfort of using our structure. We did not invent anything and put there a so-called dacha toilet, which is distinguished by a wide mouth. We picked up a watering can, a brush and a bucket for sawdust in one color shade.90003 90002 Sawdust here is the most important thing. If after each use to fill them in the toilet (three or four scoops), then in the toilet there will be no unpleasant odor. The sawdust of coniferous trees is best suited for this purpose. 90003 90002 We have been doing this for five years already – and everything is fine. In addition, we use special bacteriological preparations that decompose the contents of the cesspools, turning it into a homogeneous liquid mass (also odorless, by the way).The effectiveness of all these tools can be said one thing – ventilation in our toilet is not required. 90003 90002 That’s what we have a cozy “brooding house”. All the households and guests are very happy, and this is the most important thing in such a delicate matter. 90003 90002 Anna Raspopova 90003 90014 90002 © Author: S. Burmistrov 90003 90094 90095 TOOLS FOR MASTERS AND MASTERS, AND HOME GOODS ARE VERY CHEAP. FREE SHIPPING. THERE ARE REVIEWS. 90096 90097 90060 Below other entries on the topic “How to make your own hands – a householder!” 90045 90100 Teremok at the dacha with his own hands – a step-by-step photo SANUSEL-TEREMOK OWN HANDS IT IS NOW DIFFICULT TO PRESENT… 90101 90100 Toilet in the dacha with their own hands – summer and winter: 2 in 1 Summer and winter toilet for your … 90101 90100 Mini-well with own hands (+ photo) Mini-well with their own hands on the site … 90101 90100 A beautiful house-toilet with own hands – a step-by-step photo and a master class TOILET HOUSE WITH YOUR HANDS … 90101 90100 Water in the country with their own hands is the cheapest way We spend the water in the holiday home …90101 90100 Cottage WC – drawings Drawings of the toilet for construction on … 90101 90100 A toilet toilet by one’s own hands is another device How to make your own dacha … 90014 90044 Subscribe to updates in our groups and share. 90045 90044 Let’s be friends! 90045 90101.