Черновая отделка что включает: Черновая отделка что включает, черновой ремонт квартире и новостройке, улучшенная черновая отделка

Преимущества черновой отделки перед покупкой квартиры

Если вы покупаете квартиру в новостройке, как правило, у вас есть два варианта отделки на выбор: черновая и чистовая. Какую выбрать?

Если вы покупаете квартиру в новостройке, как правило, у вас есть два варианта отделки на выбор: черновая и чистовая. В квартире с чистовой застройщик уже установил сантехнику, сделал пол, потом и стены. Вам останется только завезти мебель, и квартира готова к проживанию. Но в этом есть и минус — дизайн будет выполнен на вкус застройщика, а выбор отделки имеет ограничения. Так что если вы хотите интересный интерьер, которого больше не будет ни у кого, покупайте квартиру с черновой отделкой.

Еще 10 лет назад люди относились с настороженностью к готовой отделке. Ее выбирали лишь 10% покупателей от общего рынка. Доводы обычно следующие:

• «не доверяю качеству работы или материалов»

• «хочу сам контролировать ремонт»

• «буду сам все делать»

Сегодня примерно половина будущих новоселов покупают квартиры с готовым ремонтом. Чтобы сразу въехать и жить там. А другая половина предпочитает «чистый лист» для будущего ремонта. И в этой статье мы расскажем и покажем, что должна включать в себя черновая отделка.Хоть на вид это просто «бетонная коробка», существует обязательный перечень того, что вам обязан предоставить застройщик. Эти составляющие прописываются в договоре на покупку квартиры в разделе «Характеристика квартиры» с довольно подробным описанием. В договоре должен быть такой пункт:(текст из реального договора автора статьи)

Внимательно читайте свой договор и знайте, на что имеете право.

У разных застройщиков есть небольшие отличия в списке. Например, пластиковые окна или деревянные. Но сами окна должны быть обязательно. А дальше

По пунктам

 

• Потолок. Совершенно без отделки, просто бетонные плиты.

• Пол. Бетонная стяжка из цемента, закрывает материал, из которого построен дом. Делается для выравнивания пола, сглаживает возможные перепады высоты. Если стяжка сделана без больших шероховатостей, можно класть напольное покрытие (плитку, ламинат и пр) сразу на нее.

  

• Стены. Тут бывают два варианта. Либо стены остаются голыми, как потолок, либо выравниваются и покрываются штукатуркой. Обсуждайте с застройщиком.

• Электрика. Проводка со щитком, счетчиком, разводкой по квартире и установкой розеток и выключателей. Если потом захотите иметь розетки и выключатели в более удобных местах, нужно будет переделывать проводку самим.

• Водоснабжение. Магистральные трубопроводы горячей и холодной воды. Со счетчиками и без разводки по квартире. На деле: стояки, от которых нужно  прокладывать трубы к кранам в ванную, в раковину, к унитазу и на кухню. Самой сантехники не будет. Будет только полотенцесушитель, форма и внешний вид которого у всех застройщиков разная. Уточняйте.

• Санузел. Стяжка пола с гидроизоляцией. Стены без штукатурки.

• Отопление. Устанавливаются панельные радиаторы, то есть батареи будут.

• Окна. Пластиковые или деревянные рамы, стеклопакеты. Чаще всего пластиковые и белые. С подоконниками. Если хотите другого цвета и с нестандартными подоконниками, готовьтесь менять остекление.

• Двери. Межкомнатных не будет. Входные двери всем жильцам устанавливают одинаковые. А дальше два варианта: совсем простая, легкая и не внушающая доверия. Обычно покупатели меняют их сразу после ремонта, до въезда в квартиру. Если входная дверь от застройщика устроит по качеству, достаточно будет поменять или добавить замки.

Плюсы и минусы

Черновая отделка Чистовая отделка

В квартиру с черновой отделкой нельзя въехать сразу после приемки и получения ключей. Как минимум нужно сделать разводку труб и поставить унитаз. В идеале — положить пол, поставить ванную, раковину и смесители.

Розетки и выключатели при чистовой отделке монтируются на усмотрение застройщика. Поэтому, если вы захотите перенести выключатели или розетки, сделать это до ремонта гораздо удобнее. То есть в случае черновой отделки.

Еще вам может просто не понравиться форма раковины и ванной. А если сантехника от застройщика внезапно начнет протекать или вдруг треснет раковина, придется все переделывать.

Квартира с черновой отделкой предоставит вам выбор, как спланировать все внутри идеально под ваши потребности. Ведь покупка недвижимости — серьезное дело, и покупается она не на пару лет. Всем хочется жить в красивом и уютном интерьере. И какой бы вариант отделки вы не выбрали в итоге, у нас есть разные тарифы под любые запросы. Цены можно посмотреть здесь.

90000 rough finish – definition – English 90001 90002 Example sentences with “rough finish”, translation memory 90003 90004 90004 patents-wipoAccording to this method, the surface roughness of about 3 $ g (m) m Rmax is mirror-finished to about several tens of nm Rmax on account of exceedingly effective actions such as an electrolytic action with the use of the finishing tool and a mechanical grinding action depending on relative rotations of the tool (14) and the tube (10) as well as reciprocating movement thereof in the axial direction in the rough finishing process, and electrolytic and mechanical finishing actions with the use of the mirror finishing tool in the mirror finishing process to which processing is changed over from the preceding process at an appropriate time.90004 90004 patents-wipoA method of forming a wear-resistant coating (14) on a metal substrate (12) includes depositing a metal alloy onto the metal substrate (12) to form a cladding (16), rough finishing the cladding (16) to thereby provide the cladding (16) with an average roughness, Ra, of from about 50 micro-inches to about 150 micro-inches, and work hardening the cladding (16) to thereby form the wear-resistant coating (14) and a hardened zone (18) thereof, wherein the hardened zone (18) has a hardness greater than a hardness of the metal substrate (12).90004 90004 patents-wipoIn the rough grinding process, an electrode tool (14) for rough finishing having non-woven nylon fabric wound around a core electrode (15) thereof is used, wherein electrolytic grinding is applied to the inner surface of a small- diameter tube (10) with a minute electric current supplied through an electrolytic solution and is continued until the roughness of the inner surface of the tube is lowered to 0.5 $ g (m) m Rmax or below while rotating the electrode tool (14) and the tube (10) relatively to each other and reciprocating relatively in the axial direction.90010 90010 WikiMatrixThe wartime Mosins are easily identified by the presence of tool marks and rough finishing that never would have passed the inspectors in peacetime. 90004 90004 patents-wipoA device for changing tools used during grinding operations (grinding wheels, rough-finishing rolls and similar) comprises a transfer unit (7, 8) with a column (9, 80), chassis or similar having one or several supports (h2, h3) for tool units (W1, W2). 90010 90010 WikiMatrixFor the 38H, this meant simpler markings, rough finish, and the elimination of features like the slide-mounted safety.90010 90010 WikiMatrixRough finishes on stone are also very common in architecture outside the European tradition, but these too would generally not be called rustication. 90004 90004 patents-wipoThe insert can cut an aluminum ingot slice to a surface roughness finish in the range of about 7-9 micro inches. 90020 90020 Common crawlThe contrast between the two buildings underpins the architectural project of the Lyon-based firms run by Jacques and Clément Vergély: the transparency of the glass building housing the headquarters forms a counterpoint to the opaque geometry of the museum’s rough-finished concrete walls .90020 90020 Common crawlThe special composition of this enamel becomes rough-finished upon termal treatment and it is virtually indistinguishable from chemical frosting. 90024 90024 EurLex-2In general, coarser grits are used for heavy duty work aimed at rapid stock removal from workpieces with rough finishes, whereas finer grits are used for finishing and polishing applications. 90010 90010 WikiMatrixWeathered native granite dominated the symmetrical Tudor Revival building, which bore the strong imprint of its architect, John White, in an exaggerated roofline which comprised more than half of the height of the structure, a huge granite fireplace, and its rough-finish exposed roof beams.90004 90004 patents-wipoThe device for clamping crankshafts in machining units is designed to secure the parts to be machined in a specific position, in a reproducable manner and without distortion, even in the case of differing rough-finished crankshafts and varying clamping forces. 90030 90030 Giga-frenThis particular device allows for ease of operation and accommodates a wide range of surface applications such as vertical, horizontal, or sloped surfaces, and smooth or rough finishes, while providing quick, consistent, and meaningful results.90010 90010 WikiMatrixThey first came to prominence with Hunstanton School, completed in 1954 which used some of the language of high modernist Ludwig Mies van der Rohe but in a stripped back way, with rough finishes and a deliberate lack of refinement that kept architectural structure and services exposed. 90020 90020 Common crawlRappold-Winterthur mounted points are distinguished by an extensive range of grain qualities, grit sizes, hardness and bond types for roughing, finishing or special applications.90036 90036 LASER-wikipedia2Roughing or Finishing: Different types of cutter are available for cutting away large amounts of material, leaving a poor surface finish (roughing), or removing a smaller amount of material, but leaving a good surface finish (finishing). 90004 90004 patents-wipoIn order to judge the state of rough machining or finish machining at each stage of wire electric spark machining, a set of information on machining speed, machining voltage and machined portion is stored for every movement of a given distance and displayed on a two-dimensional graph in the process of machinings from a rough machining to a finish machining.90004 90004 patents-wipoA process for producing nonoriented electric steel sheet having excellent magnetic properties by hot direct rolling, which comprises conducting hot direct rolling of continuously cast slab without heat retention or soaking to depress precipitation of AlN except for unavoidably precipitated AlN, conducting rough rolling and finish rolling with a predetermined draft while providing a stand-by time between said rough rolling step and said finish rolling step, conducting said finish rolling at a point lower than the Ar¿3? 90004 90004 patents-wipoThe rolling procedures of the profiled steel comprise in turn of rough rolling, finishing rolling, coolant-controlling and straightening, two reversible mill rolling is adopted for rough rolling, the maximum rolling force of a two reversible mill is 8000 to 10000KN , and the rolling deformation should account for 60 to 90 per cent of total deformation, three-stand universal continuous rolling line is adopted for finishing rolling.90044 90044 hrenWaCFinished walls in warehouse are covered by thermal isolation and rough outside finish with glue on which final decorative coating in color of choice of investor will be applied upon finished construction. 90004 90004 patents-wipoA face milling cutter (1) for machine tools, in which the roughing cut and the following finishing cut are performed by the same tool in a single pass using a single form of indexable on-edge insert (3) at separate roughing (3b) and finishing stations (3a) on the cutter body (2).90004 90004 patents-wipoA knife holder (11) for a rounding machine of the type whereby a log (9) is first rounded to a substantially constant diameter by a leading roughing knife (17) and subsequently is engaged with a finishing knife (16) to provide a required surface finish on the log at the diameter whereby the rounding machine is adapted such that the roughing knife (17) and the finishing knife (16) orbit a longitudinal axis (8) of the log, characterised in that the knife holder (11) is adapted to hold a relatively thin roughing knife (17) and / or the finishing knife (16).90004 90004 patents-wipoThe tube is polished to polish the exterior surface to a smooth surface finish and with at least a portion of the interior surface having a rough surface finish rougher than the surface finish of the exterior surface. 90052 Showing page 1. Found 531 sentences matching phrase “rough finish” .Found in 11 ms. Translation memories are created by human, but computer aligned, which might cause mistakes. They come from many sources and are not checked. Be warned. 90053.90000 How to Finish a Bathroom Toilet Sink With Rough Plumbing Already There | Home Guides 90001 90002 Installing the rough plumbing is the most difficult part of putting in a bathroom sink, so you’re in luck if it’s already there. It should include a drain and two water stub-outs. The sink installation is even less complicated if the water stub-outs are already fitted with shut-off valves, but if they are not, you can add those with little difficulty. It’s easier to hook up the sink P-trap and make it leakproof if you’re able to center the sink over the drain stub-out.If you can not, you may have to add some angle fittings to the sink drain pipes. 90003 90002 Install shut-off valves on the hot and cold water lines if they are not already there. Look for valves controlling the lines that you’re working on, so you can shut off the water. If you can not find dedicated valves, shut off the main water valve for the house. 90003 90002 Cut off the caps soldered onto the pipes with a pipe cutter. Leave about 1 inch of pipe sticking out from the wall. 90003 90002 Connect a valve with a compression fitting by sliding the compression nut onto the pipe and fitting the brass collar that comes with the valve onto the end of the pipe.Fit the valve onto the pipe and tighten the nut by hand. Continue tightening by holding the valve with adjustable pliers while you turn the nut clockwise relative to the valve with a wrench. 90003 90002 Glue an ABS P-trap adapter onto the drain stub-out with ABS cement if there is not one already. The adapter reduces the drain opening from 2 inches to 1 1/2 inches and has a compression fitting for connecting the trap outlet. 90003 90002 Attach the faucet and the drain to the sink before you drop the sink into the vanity or attach it to the wall.Faucets have different designs, but most connect to the sink by means of a retaining nut that you tighten with adjustable pliers. 90003 90002 Screw the drain extension, or tailpiece, onto the strainer and spread a generous amount of plumber’s putty to the underside of the strainer lip. Push the strainer into the drain hole and tighten the retaining nut onto it from underneath the sink. Tighten the nut with adjustable pliers. 90003 90002 Hook up the faucet to the water supply with flexible supply hoses.They do not come with the faucet, so when you buy them, ensure that they’re long enough and that the connectors fit your faucet and shut-off valves. Tighten the hoses to the shut-off valves and the faucet stems with adjustable pliers. 90003 90002 Cut the drain tailpiece with a hacksaw if it extends below the drain opening. Ideally, it should be at the same level or slightly above. If it’s more than 2 inches above, lengthen it with an extension, which is a length of 1 1/2 inch PVC pipe with a compression fitting that you tighten by hand.90003 90002 Tighten the P-trap inlet to the tailpiece or extension by hand. Swivel the trap to align the outlet with the drain stub-out and measure the distance between them. Cut a piece of 1 1/2 inch PVC pipe that is 2 inches longer than the distance you measured and insert the ends into the trap outlet and drain inlet. Tighten the compression nuts at both points of connection by hand. 90003 90002 Turn on the water to the shut-off valves and then turn on the valves. Open the faucet to let all the air out and then fill the sink.Let the water out of the sink and inspect the drain connections for leaks. Tighten any leaking connectors with adjustable pliers. 90003.90000 Finally, the Truth about Wood Finishes 90001 90002 90003 It was sometime in the late 1970s when Bob Flexner opened his furniture making and restoration shop. Just like any other artisan, he felt immense satisfaction and a deep sense of pride and accomplishment in crafting and restoring furniture; naturally, he became quite good at it. 90004 90002 When it came to wood finishing, however, that was a different story. Flexner admits he struggled with finishing for years.A struggle not unlike what many other woodworkers also faced then and still face today. 90004 90002 What Flexner discovered was that much of the available information on finishing was contradictory and misleading. He realized this was why he and other woodworkers found finishing so hard to master. 90004 90002 This contradictory information came from a number of sources, including the only magazine dedicated to woodworking back then, Fine Woodworking, paint store clerks, finish product reps, and even the instructions written by the manufacturers of finishing products.90004 90002 Why so much misinformation? 90004 90002 Flexner says the answer is simple. It’s the difference between “physics” and “chemistry.” 90004 90002 90016 He explains that “woodworking is physics. A manufacturer could try to sell a band saw as a table saw because it has a table on it. But they can not get away with that because everybody knows what a band saw is and what a table saw is, and you can see it. ” 90004 90002 “But a can of finish, that’s chemistry. And you can not see what the chemistry is.So a manufacturer can sell you a can of teak oil when it really is not teak oil. It may only be regular varnish thinned with paint thinner or just regular mineral oil. Yet they call it teak oil. You do not know. ” 90004 90002 As a result, Flexner says this lack of visual confirmation enabled mythologies about finishing to develop that were spread from person to person, or “expert” to “expert.” 90004 90002 Flexner knows this all too well. After years of struggling with wood finishing, he began researching the subject at a major university library.There he studied at length the chemistry and technology of all coatings – paints, stains, and finishes. 90004 90002 Eventually, he learned to define the various types of finishes and their respective qualities, as well as identify what a finish product really was versus what the manufacturer claimed it to be. In short, he learned to separate the contradictory information, misleading labeling, and even deliberate deception from what was fact. 90004 90002 Armed with this knowledge, he went on to become one of the world’s leading authorities on wood finishing.His book, 90027 Understanding Wood Finishing 90028, has sold 400,000 copies since being published in 1994. Other books such as 90027 Flexner on Finishing 90028 and 90027 Wood Finishing 101 90028, plus hundreds of magazine articles, followed. 90004 90034 Wood Finishing Basics 90035 90002 To help woodworkers better understand wood finishes and some of the issues surrounding their applications, Flexner commented on some of the wood finishing basics. 90004 90002 He defines the term “finish” as a clear, transparent coating that’s applied in liquid form to wood by brushing, spraying, or wiping it on with a cloth.Sometimes, though, “finish” can mean an entire series of coats – meaning stain, one or more coats of clear finish, and maybe some coloring steps in between these coats. 90004 90002 A finish benefits wood in two basic ways: protection and decoration. 90004 90002 Protection means protection from moisture, either in a liquid or vapor form (humidity), or protection from scratches, dirt, and wear. The thicker the finish, the more moisture-resistant it is. 90004 90002 For example, three coats are more protective than one or two.Some finishes, however, offer no significant thickness or protection. That’s the case with wax, boiled linseed oil, and 100% tung oil. Each dries soft and gummy, so all the excess has to be wiped off after each application to maintain a workable surface. Doing this, however, provides insufficient thickness or protection. 90004 90002 Decoration means the finish showcases the wood’s natural beauty, color, figure patterns, grain, and depth. It also enhances the wood’s appearance by hiding defects.90004 90002 There are several types of wood finishes. Here are the basic ones most woodworkers use: 90004 90050 90051 Oil (100% tung oil, boiled linseed oil, and blends of these oils and varnish) 90052 90051 Oil-based varnish (including alkyd, polyurethane, spar, wiping and gel varnish) 90052 90051 Water-based finish (a finish that thins and cleans up with water) 90052 90051 Shellac 90052 90051 Lacquer 90052 90061 90002 Paint, too, is a wood finish, but one with enough pigment to hide the wood.Stain is also a wood finish, but one with pigment or dye plus a lot of thinner to make it easy to wipe off. What’s left simply colors the wood rather than hiding it like paint. 90004 90002 90065 Deciding which finish to use on a piece of wood depends on several factors. For instance, a woodworker might want to select a particular finish over the others if it offers greater durability, is easier to use, provides either a certain color or no color, dries faster, or emits the least amount of toxic fumes.90004 90002 90068 Durability 90069 is the strength of the finish film itself to resist being damaged. For example, polyurethane, initially introduced in the 1960s as a no-wax floor finish, would be a good durable finish. 90004 90002 Since a polyurethane finish dries slowly, it can be brushed on. Alternatives for someone wanting to spray on a durable finish would be to use a pre-catalyzed or catalyzed lacquer or conversion varnish. These are all called catalyzed finishes and are a little bit different than lacquer.Although they have different resins in them, they dry fast like lacquer and are just as durable or even more so than polyurethane. 90004 90002 If 90068 ease of use 90069 is important, then a simple wipe-on finish like Danish oil or an oil varnish blend can be used. A wipe on and wipe off product is much easier to use than working with a brush or a spray gun. 90004 90002 90068 Color 90069 is another consideration when choosing a finish. Water-based finishes, which are acrylics, give the wood no color nor do they darken as they age.They work well on lighter woods such as maple, birch or pine. 90004 90002 If finishing a darker wood, such as walnut, mahogany or cherry, then one of the other finishes such as shellac or lacquer is better. They give the wood somewhat of a yellowish to yellow-orange coloring. They also make the wood look richer and continue to darken as they age. 90004 90002 If 90068 drying time 90069 is important, shellac and lacquer finishes dry the fastest followed by water-based finishes. Varnish and oil take longer to dry, usually overnight in a warm room.90004 90002 Since lacquer dries the fastest, it works great when applied by a spray gun. Shellac and water-based finishes dry fast too, and can be either sprayed or brushed on. 90004 90002 90068 Less toxicity 90069 can be another factor in selecting a finish. One of the most toxic finishes is lacquer. It requires good ventilation. Some woodworkers find oil-based varnish thinned with paint thinner to be objectionable, but it’s not especially toxic. 90004 90002 The least toxic finishes are boiled linseed oil and 100% tung oil.They’re followed by water-based finishes and shellac. 90004 90034 Before the Wood Finish Goes On … 90035 90002 As already stated, one of the benefits of applying a wood finish is its protection against moisture and humidity. However, problems could occur if the wood object is not properly dried before adding a finish. 90004 90002 Flexner says, “You want the wood to attain its equilibrium moisture content (EMC) with the surrounding atmosphere so that it does not shrink and swell. You might notice sometimes a cabinet door with a frame around the outside and a panel on the inside after the whole door has been finished or painted.If the wood was not dry enough for that atmosphere, over time the panel shrinks and you have a line on each side where there’s no finish or paint. ” 90004 90002 “So it’s important that you check and use a moisture meter, and that you check the wood for its moisture content (MC). You can use the EMC tables that will tell you what the MC should be for that atmosphere. Usually around 6 to 8%. ” 90004 90002 90068 TIP 90069: 90027 Woodworkers can now easily calculate EMC (and troubleshoot wood moisture problems) using the free Wagner Wood h30 app.There are no complicated on-screen tables or computing – just a quick and simple calculation of necessary temperature and relative humidity for EMC. To download the app, click here. 90028 90004 90002 90110 An excellent illustration of this concern for moisture before applying a protective coat is seen in the construction of bowling pins. Bowling pins are made of hard maple because of its great strength and distinctive sound when the pins crash. During the manufacturing process, several pieces of the maple are glued together.However, if the maple pieces are not dried to the proper MC, the glued joints would fail and they would fall apart. 90004 90002 QubicaAMF Purchasing Manager Chet Moore explains how his company addresses this issue. “Essentially, we glue several pieces of maple together, so they have to be dry enough to be glued. But we do not dry it quite as low as a furniture maker. We try to keep it at a certain moisture level to optimize the production process and the quality of the pin. But if the correct moisture level is not attained, the glued pieces will not stay together.That joint will eventually fail, “he says. 90004 90002 To prevent this from happening, QubicaAMF uses a Wagner wood moisture meter throughout the kiln drying process. The Wagner meter, highly acclaimed for its accuracy, comes with a special attachment that the kiln operator can slide into the center of the wood bundles before they are placed in the onsite drying kilns. 90004 90002 This enables the kiln operator to check the different layers in the bundles as they’re drying. Since the Wagner meter is pinless, it leaves no holes in the maple.90004 90002 Once the wood is dried to the ideal MC level, they can glue the pieces and then coat it with a plastic called Surlyn®. This coating protects the maple from damage and keeps out any unwanted moisture, thereby extending pin life. 90004 90034 Applying a Finish 90035 90002 After an object is made and it’s time to apply a finish, Flexner says the MC of the wood becomes less of an issue; that is, unless the MC is so high (almost wet to the touch) that it causes a problem with the finish.90004 90002 The thicker the finish that’s applied, the better it’s going to resist moisture or humidity exchange, but Flexner cautions woodworkers about applying a finish that’s too thick – typically, more than three coats. What happens is that the finish deteriorates and cracks faster. 90004 90002 The exception would be a poured-on epoxy finish – like what some restaurants use on their dining tables. The boards in these tables show no visible shrinkage or expansion because the epoxy finish is so thick that it just stops the change almost entirely.But, of course, epoxy is not a very functional finish for a cabinet or some fine pieces of furniture. 90004 90002 While a regular finish can greatly minimize the shrinkage and expansion of wood, the wood will still undergo some movement. This often occurs during the change of seasons or if a piece of furniture is moved from a very dry location, like Phoenix, to a much more humid locale, like Miami, or vice versa. 90004 90002 For example, in winter and summer, when the air is drier due to a heater or air conditioner running, the wood shrinks.In the fall and spring, when HVAC units may not be on or when windows are left open, the wood can expand but again, not to the extent that it normally would if there were no finish on the wood. 90004 90002 Flexner also notes that the first coat of any finish seals the wood. In effect, the finish stops up the pores in the wood so that the next coat of finish, or any other liquid for that matter, does not penetrate easily. 90004 90002 90135 This first application of finish raises the wood’s grain so that it feels rough.Rubbing sandpaper lightly over the rough surface will make it feel smooth. 90004 90002 Nothing else needs to be done to the wood unless, after this first coat, one of two issues need to be addressed. 90004 90002 The first issue involves the use of alkyd varnish and lacquer. They gum up sandpaper when the wood is sanded, so a sanding sealer will be needed. Flexner notes that sanding sealers weaken the finish and should be used only when finishing a large project or doing production work. 90004 90002 The second issue may involve problems in the wood such as resinous knots in softwoods.This problem can be corrected by using shellac for the first coat. 90004 90034 Closing Comments 90035 90002 Obviously, this article only skims the surface of all there is to know about wood finishing. For anyone wanting a more in-depth coverage of finishing, read Flexner’s book 90027 Understanding Wood Finishing 90028. 90004 90002 For the amateur woodworker or someone wanting to do basic finishing, Flexner’s book 90027 Wood Finishing 101 90028 would be ideal. It’s not as comprehensive as 90027 Understanding Wood Finishing 90028, but it comes with plenty of photos and step-by-step illustrations.90004 90155 90002 Larry Loffer is a senior technician at Wagner Meters, where he has over 30 years of experience in wood moisture measurement. With a degree in Computer Systems, Larry is involved in both hardware and software development of wood moisture measurement solutions. 90004 .90000 Complete Guide [Tips, Techniques, and Secrets] 90001 90002 90003 90004 Note 90005: This is Lesson 7 of our Free Feeds & Speeds Master Class. 90006 90007 90002 Want to improve your milling finish? Trying to reduce post-machining finish work or just get better looking parts? 90007 90002 You’re in just the right place. This article is about the little tricks focused expressly on creating a better surface finish. 90007 90012 Understand How Surface Finish Will Be Measured 90013 90002 90007 90016 90007 90002 90007 90002 If your concern for surface finish is based on the requirements placed on a particular part, understand how the Surface Finish will be measured.Which Surface Finish Measurement system will be used-RA, RZ, or some other? The link will take you to our page on Surface Finish Measurement which will help you understand the ins and outs of these systems as well as provide handy conversion between the different systems. 90007 90012 Use the Right Feeds and Speeds 90013 90002 It’s absolutely critical to have the right feeds and speeds for finishing work-no guessing! 90007 90002 Use a proper feeds and speeds calculator like G-Wizard-most finish work needs to take radial chip thinning, ballnose compensation, and a host of other sophisticated factors into account.90007 90002 Keep the rpms up where surface speed says they should be and back off the feedrate for a finer finish. G-Wizard has its “Tortoise and Hare” slider to do this adjustment. Move it all the way left. That’s its special “Fine Finish” setting which puts the chip load as close to rubbing as you want to go for best possible finish. 90007 90016 90007 90016 Move the Tortoise and Hare lever all the way left when finishing … 90007 90002 Do not allow the chip load to go too low or you’ll be rubbing the tooling instead of taking clean cuts.In general, the Tortoise-Hare slider provides a tradeoff between quality of finish and how fast it removes material when roughing. 90007 90012 Use a Finish Pass With a Light Cut 90013 90002 Keep a low cut width (or cut depth if you’re talking the floor of a pocket or surfacing with a Face Mill) and do a separate finish pass. The depth of cut has to be larger than the chip load, or you can get rubbing. Usually something like 2-3x chip load will be right for the finish pass. I do a lot of finish passes in the 0.015 “neighborhood. The lighter pass will reduce cutting force and keep things smoother for a better finish. 90007 90012 Pull Up to Finish Pocket Walls 90013 90042 Saw a great tip from an aerospace machinist on one of Hoss’s CNCZone threads: 90007 90044 90042 When you do the finish pass, reduce depth of cut a few thousandths so that only the side of the endmill is cutting. This will improve surface finish and reduce chatter. 90007 90047 90042 Sounds like a geat tip to me! 90007 90012 Clear the Chips! 90013 90002 Chips down in the work will scratch it up as your cutter slides them around in the hole.With work hardening materials like stainless, you may as well scatter a handful of hardened steel chips to scratch up your work. 90007 90002 Use your coolant or air blast to get the chips completely out of the way of the hole. Hurco calls this out as one of the first and most important things to attend to in order to improve your surface finish. 90007 90016 90007 90016 Keep the chips clear so they will not scratch the workpiece or dull your cutter … 90007 90002 The chips will not clear of their own accord, although the tendency for gravity to help the process along is one reason horizontal mills can be more productive than vertical mills (or lathes too for that matter).Either Flood Coolant or an air blast with mist if needed will do the job if properly set up. See our article on the role of coolant for more. 90007 90012 Use the Most Rigid Possible Workholding 90013 90002 Rigidity in all areas is key to a fine surface finish and any vibration of flex is going to be bad for your surface finish. 90007 90002 The primary impact of workholding on surface finish is vibration. In the worst case vibration will turn into chatter, which is a harmonic effect that will be very visible in your surface finish.Clearly, the more solid you can make your workholding, the less likelihood of vibration there will be. 90007 90002 Make sure your workpiece is supported and clamped over as much area as possible surrounding the cut while still leaving room for the cutter to get in there and do its job. Remember that as you are removing material during the machining process, you are in some sense weakening the workpiece. You may weaken it to the extent that the vise or other workholding fixtures can start to deform the part.90007 90002 For example, suppose you’ve firmly clamped a relatively thin piece of aluminum plate flat in the vise. You intend to machine away the middle so it’s like a picture frame. The initial slotting pass may relieve enough material that the slot pinches against the cutter with poor results. 90007 90002 Plates are some of the most difficult pieces to machine because they often want to vibrate like gongs. The thinner and more poorly supported the plate, the greater the tendency. Here are some things to consider when machining plates: 90007 90002 – Glue the plate to a subplate with super glue.It releases with heat (careful, the fumes are toxic!) When done. You can also use double sided tape and various commercial products for machinists that are intended for the purpose. Jeweler’s wax (sometimes called “Dop Wax”) is also good for securing parts as is hot glue. For all of these adhesives, make sure they will stand up to your coolant! 90007 90002 – If you stand a plate on end in the vise or other fixture in order to machine the edge, support the plate as much as possible up to the edge.A pair of 2-4-6 blocks make a great strengthening sandwich around a plate standing on end: 90007 90002 90007 90016 90007 90016 Providing a little extra support for the plate with 2-4-6 blocks … 90007 90042 – Move the vise jaws to the outside so the plate is supported in the middle by the vise: 90007 90016 90007 90042 – In general, keep the unsupported workpiece overhang as little as possible for all machining operations. 90007 90042 – Make a set of “Vise Jaws of Doom” as I did to support long workpieces with two vises: 90007 90016 90007 90002 – Use edge clamps (such as Mitee Bites) or make use of holes in the workpiece to clamp to a fixture plate.90007 90002 – Beware over torquing any workpiece lest it deform, pinch the cutter, or destroy the accuracy of the work. 90007 90002 – A relatively new development is vibration dampening workholding. 90007 90012 Use Different Tools for Roughing and Finishing 90013 90002 Do not finish with the same tool you used for roughing. Keep brand new sharp tools for finish passes and rotate them to roughing work after they’ve done a brief tour finishing. If you’re using an indexable tool, like a facemill, use two different sets of inserts.90007 90012 Minimize Deflection and Chatter, Maximize Tool Rigidity 90013 90002 You can not get good surface finish if your tool is deflecting excessively or chattering. You’ll see every bit of that in the finish on the cut sidewalls. 90007 90002 90007 90016 90007 90016 Minimize tool deflection for best surface finish and to minimize chatter! 90007 90002 A tool that is deflecting wants to act like a tuning fork. It will neither leave a good surface finish, nor be accurate. How much deflection is too much? Ingersoll’s ballnose catalog talks about just one thousandth of an inch leading to a chatter-prone tool.It’s surprising how easy it is to get that little bit of deflection with small diameter or long reach tooling. In fact, the ratio of diameter to length of the tool is a great place to start talking about reducing deflection. 90007 90002 Reducing length to diameter ratio by 25% makes the tool more than twice as stiff so it deflects less than half as much. Deflection is directly proportional to length to the third power (a tool twice as long will deflect 2 * 2 * 2 = 8 times as much, all other things being equal!) And inversely proportional to diameter to the fourth power (a tool half the diameter will deflect 2 * 2 * 2 * 2 or 16 times more, all other things being equal!).In other words, use the shortest, fattest tooling possible. 90007 90002 Rather than worry about all those estimates, use G-Wizard Calculator not only to figure your tool deflection, but to help you choose the optimal parameters to minimize deflection: 90007 90002 90007 90016 90007 90016 Use G-Wizard Calculator to Optimize Away Tool Deflection … 90007 90002 Consider a toolchange between roughing and finishing. Instead of using the largest tool that fits the smallest radius of the tool path, use an even larger tool for roughing and let the finishing pass deal with the smaller radii.Roughing is where you’re hogging the deep chatter-prone cuts anyway. 90007 90002 Never use a longer tool than necessary. Any length more than 3x the tool’s diameter starts to be chatter-prone and by 5x you’re wishing for all the help you can get to control the chatter. 90007 90002 Choke up the tool in the chuck as much as you can to reduce stickout. 90007 90002 By the way, the part of the endmill that is fluted is weaker than the solid shank. Use the shortest possible endmills with the shortest possible fluted lengths for maximum rigidity.90007 90002 Solid carbide cutters are much more rigid than HSS cutters. Hence, even if you’re not running them at flat out carbide speeds, they may still produce a better finish. This will be especially true for longer reaches, smaller diameters, and so forth. Incidentally, carbide generally takes a smaller chip load than HSS, but it runs at so much higher rpm that it still comes out ahead. 90007 90002 Use G-Wizard’s Cut Optimizer to minimize deflection, avoid chatter on finish passes, and do what you can to increase rigidity and minimize vibration of any kind.Chatter is the worst kind of vibration and will be very visible in the finish. Check out our chapter on chatter for more tips on how to get rid of it. Our G-Wizard Calculator even has a chatter calculator to help you determine the optimal spindle rpms to minimize chatter: 90007 90002 90007 90016 90007 90016 G-Wizard includes a Chatter Pitch Calculator that can give you optimal spindle rpms to minimize chatter … 90007 90012 Use Balanced Tooling to Reduce Vibration 90013 90002 Another way to reduce vibration is to use balanced tooling.The higher the rpms, the more important this can be. 90007 90012 Surface Finish With Facemills 90013 90002 Facemills are a staple for most shops. They’re great for squaring blocks and facing large areas. Here are some things to keep in mind when facemilling: 90007 90002 – One of the challenges for surface finish when face milling is that each insert differs in cut depth by just a little bit-they’re not all cutting at exactly the same depth. More expensive facemills let you adjust each insert individually.If you can get them adjusted to a couple tenths or less, finish will be greatly improved. Failing that, try a flycutter. A big adjustable flycutter can cover the most territory in the fewest passes, and will often leave the most pleasing finish. However, you can convert even a regular facemill into a flycutter simply by removing all but one insert. 90007 90002 – The best efficiency occurs when 2/3’s of the facemill engages the workpiece at a time (67% stepover). This also results in a better surface finish.Full engagement of the cutter keeps the forces on either side of the centerline fighting each other (leads to vibration) as well as starting chips out at zero thickness. Chip formation should start thick and end thin for best surface finish. See the note below on Entering the workpiece ( “rolling in”) for more on starting thick and ending thin. 90007 90002 – Climb mill with this 2/3’s cut ratio. Conventional milling with a face mill causes the chip to start out thin, which sometimes leads to rubbing at the outset of chip formation that is bad for surface finish and can lead to BUE.The best finishes start the chip out fat and then thin it out before the chip releases. 90007 90002 – Take a light cut when finishing: 0.003 – 0.010 “90007 90002 – Keep an eye on the horsepower required for your cut. Facemilling uses a lot of it with surprisingly low depth of cut because the cutter is so wide. A wide cutter relative to the workpiece produces a more pleasing finish (fewer “mow” bands), but too much horsepower can be injected into the cut and will lead to vibration problems. Your horsepower used (or a load meter on your VMC) is telling you how much of this tendency there is.90007 90002 – Roll into cuts with a face mill as described below under Toolpath Considerations. 90007 90002 – If you do not need a square shoulder, a 45 degree lead angle facemill will often leave a better finish than a 90 degree. Chips are also about 30 percent thinner versus a 90 degree facemill so faster feedrates are possible. 90007 90002 – Where surface finish is the major consideration, use the extra sharp finishing inserts, they make a big difference. 90007 90002 – Recutting or back cutting occurs when the surface that was already cut is cut again by the back edge of the facemill.A perfectly trammed machine cuts on the leading edge only, but perfection only occurs in theory. Slight tramming errors and deflection can make back cutting a reality, and it usually results in a poorer finish. Some machinists will put their machines very slightly out of tram so that the cut is always made on the leading edge of the path. This also helps to prevent chips being dragged around the circumference of the cut which further degrades the finish. Obviously you’d only want to cut travelling in one direction as well.The bias in tram needs to be very slight lest the angle cutter create scallops that are too pronounced. Larger diameter cutters will magnify the scalloping effect. 90007 90002 – “Wiper” inserts can be used to great effect for improved surface finish. A wiper is a flat ground on the insert. It cuts with the leading edge of the flat (which is parallel to the workpiece) and then the “wiper” burnishes the work as it passes underneath. The width of this wiper flat must be greater than the advance per revolution to allow the cutting edges to overlap.Spindle tilt such as was discussed around back cutting is critical when using wipers. Due to the sharp ends on the insert, excessive spindle tilt can cause dig-in. 90007 90012 Use a PCD Flycutter for Aluminum 90013 90002 PCD inserts are supposed to leave the most amazing finish possible on aluminum. Some machinists keep a PCD-equipped flycutter in their tooling arsenal just for area finishing aluminum. 90007 90002 For a lot more data on using fly cutters, see our Fly Cutter page from our Feeds and Speeds Cookbook.90007 90012 Use a Radius and Try Round Inserts 90013 90002 90007 90016 90007 90016 Try round inserts for a better finish … 90007 90002 A bullnose or endmill with a radius will leave a finer finish than a flat endmill. If we’re talking insertable tooling, use a radius. 90007 90002 Round inserts are most prone to chatter (but if they are not chattering, the big radius leaves a great finish!), While those with a 45 degree lead angle are least prone to vibration and chatter. 90007 90012 Use Sharp Inserts, Lead Angle, and Positive Rake 90013 90002 All things considered, sharper inserts, more lead angle, and positive rake all lead to better surface finish.A 45 degree face mill produces a much nicer finish than a 90 degree square shoulder face mill. 90007 90002 Positive rake cutting geometries will typically require lower cutting forces (resulting in less deflection), and they will produce a finer surface finish. The positive geometry bites into the material’s shear planes with less force. 90007 90002 90007 90016 90007 90002 – Prefer sharper inserts. These are often more expensive ground inserts rather than pressed or molded inserts. 90007 90016 90007 90016 Ground CCGT insert with sharp edges … 90007 90012 High Helix and Variable Helix Cutters Can Leave a Better Finish 90013 90002 High helix cutters leave a better finish.Variable helix cutters break up chatter vibrations because the varying helix keeps the vibration from settling on a single frequency. 90007 90012 More Flutes are Equivalent to a Higher RPM for Surface Finishes 90013 90002 More flutes or inserts are equivalent to a higher rpm. Many older mills are limited on their spindle’s rpm. Being able to employ more flutes or inserts can restore some of the advantage. 90007 90002 Be sure to consider chip clearance. You should not use a 4 flute cutter when slotting in aluminum (there is not enough chip clearance), but you can use a 3 flute to slot and it is equivalent to 50% more rpm than the 2 flute.Even better, if you are milling around the outside profile (peripheral milling), there may be plenty of clearance for chips to fall away and you could use a 4 flute cutter on aluminum. 90007 90002 A counter argument to using more flutes or inserts is that fewer flutes / inserts are less prone to chatter. 90007 90002 A single flute end mill will also provide much more chip clearance. This can improve surface finish in materials like plastics which are easily scratched by their own chips. 90007 90012 Remove an Insert to Reduce Chatter 90013 90002 You can sometimes break up chatter on a facemill or other indexable tooling by removing an insert.It is the regular striking of the inserts against the workpiece that feeds the vibration. Taking out an insert means that every so often that regular pattern is broken up. 90007 90012 Run a Cutter Backwards to Burnish the Material 90013 90002 Be careful with this technique-it’s the fastest way to dull a cutter and if you move the tool into the material much you’ll break the tool. However, if you can get a tool you do not care about dulling (just endmills, no indexable tooling!), And you control the tool well enough, it leaves a burnished finish on the workpiece that may be just the ticket for your job .Do not use this trick for anything harder than aluminum or brass. 90007 90012 Climb vs Conventional Milling: Assume Nothing About Which is Best for Finish 90013 90002 This is a complex topic. Climb milling reduces cutting forces and ordinarily that would be the best answer for finish. But, climb deflects into the wall and conventional does not. Read our Climb vs Conventional Milling Page to decide which will be best for your needs. 90007 90016 90007 90016 Climb vs Conventional Milling … 90007 90012 Entering and Exiting the Cut 90013 90002 Roll into and out of your cuts for better surface finish.See our Toolpath page for more info on this technique. 90007 90012 Do not Dwell 90013 90002 Every time the tool stops while in contact with the workpiece it’ll leave a mark. Never dwell (stop the tool against the workpiece) when surface finish matters. 90007 90012 Avoid Cutting Down the Centerline 90013 90002 Cutting down the centerline will slap an insert or flute flat against the edge of the material, which creates burrs and generally makes it hard to get great surface finish. Instead of a 50/50 cut down the centerline, choose about 70/30 for a better result.90007 90012 Tram Your Mill Carefully, or Put it Out of Tram Intentionally 90013 90002 We’re talking about facemilling and fly cutting here, or area finishing. When it comes to area finishing, there are two schools of thought on tram and surface finish-either get your mill trammed near perfectly or put it out of tram just a little bit. The considerations are largely aesthetic. If your mill is well trammed, you’ll see equal tooling marks on both sides. If the spindle “leans” into the cut a bit, you’ll only see one tooling mark.Some folks prefer the symmetry of two marks and some prefer the one. Either way, if finish matters and your mill is trammable, you’ll want to retram just before critical finish work is done. 90007 90012 Use the Largest Endmill whose Radius is Less Than the Corner Radius for Finish 90013 90002 The endmill can not cut a corner any smaller than it’s own radius, but when the endmill and corner radii are the same, it’s particular likely to cause problems. Make the endmill slightly smaller. You may have to increase the corner radius if you customer will allow it, or do something sneaky, like use a metric size if it is closer than the next smaller Imperial size (or vice versa).90007 90002 If there are no inside corners, use the biggest tool you have that will produce a fine finish. It’s size will contribute to rigidity and a smoother finish. 90007 90012 When Using Indexable Tooling on Mills and Lathes, Try a “Wiper” Insert 90013 90002 Wiper Inserts have a small flat area adjacent to the tool nose radius that actually burnishes the finish smooth. The resulting finishes can be pretty sweet. 90007 90012 Use Higher Lead Angles for Milling and Turning, and Prefer Positive Rake 90013 90002 Both will produce a better surface finish.See our article on 45 vs 90 degree Face Mills for more. 90007 90012 Minimize Runout 90013 90002 With runout, your tool (or workpiece on a lathe) spins in an eccentric path instead of a true circle. This is very bad for surface finish. The more runout, the worse the finish. If you know some cutter and toolholder combinations have less runout, prefer them when finishing. For example, an ER collet chuck will amost always have less runout than a setscrew-style endmill holder. Use the collet chuck when finishing.90007 90012 DFM Tips for Surface Finish 90013 90002 How fine a finish should you spec? If you ask for too much, you drive up the cost to manufacture. Too little and you reduce the quality of your product. If you want the finish that’s cheap and cheerful to hit with most CNC machines, specify no finer than a 64 μ “finish. A 32 μ “finish will not add much cost, and a 16 or even an 8 μ” finish can be done, but now you’ll be looking at increasing costs. Thanks to ProCNC.com for these tips! 90007 90002 Here is a discussion of the cost of excessive tolerances, which is also applicable to excessive finish requirements.90007 90012 Toolholders and Surface Finish 90013 90002 Obviously the toolholder has a lot to contribute to the rigidity and vibration dampening of the system. A CAT40 holder is much stiffer than the Bridgeport’s R8. Even an NMTB30 has a lot more mass to it than the R8: 90007 90016 90007 90042 I read a fascinating analysis of toolholder efficacy in a graduate thesis out of the University of British Colombia ( “Mechanics and Dynamics of the Toolholder Spindle Interface”) that raised some good data I had not seen before: 90007 90042 – HSK toolholders are as much as 4x stiffer than equivalent sized CAT40 holders.This is mainly due to the dual-face contact of the HSK design. 90007 90042 – The thesis compared the performance of milling chucks, shrink fit, hydraulic chucks, and collet chucks. The most important characteristic for finishing operations is modal stiffness. In order of best to worst performance, here is how the different toolholders ranked: 90007 90288 90289 90290 90291 90002 90004 Tool Holder Type 90005 90007 90296 90291 90002 90004 Modal Stiffness 90005 90007 90296 90291 90002 90004 Dyamic Stiffness 90005 90007 90296 90309 90290 90291 Shrink-fit 90296 90291 90002 0.89 90007 90296 90291 90002 0.065 90007 90296 90309 90290 90291 Collet Chuck 90296 90291 90002 0.75 90007 90296 90291 90002 0.155 90007 90296 90309 90290 90291 Hydraulic 90296 90291 90002 0.53 90007 90296 90291 90002 0.196 90007 90296 90309 90290 90291 Milling Chuck 90296 90291 90002 0.52 90007 90296 90291 90002 0.184 90007 90296 90309 90358 90359 90042 Surprising that the lowly collet chuck performed nearly as well as finicky shrink fit tooling and quite a bit better than more expensive hydraulic and power chuck-style holders! 90007 90042 However where roughing is concerned, the Dynamic Stiffness is important for suppressing chatter.For maximum material removal rates, we want to maximize Dynamic Stiffness. Here the Collet Chuck also performs pretty darned well, and it is in hogging out lots of material that the hydraulic and milling chuck style holders start to come into their own. The shrink-fit performs poorly because the shrink fit does not dampen the vibrations, it just holds the tool very very tightly. Makes you wonder if it does not make it more likely to ring like a bell when held so tight? 90007 90042 Other toolholder thoughts: 90007 90042 – Consider balancing your toolholders.It’s a requirement for rpms over 10K, but it will smooth vibrations even at lower rpms. Obviously tools like flycutters are inherently unbalanced to start with, or must they be? Perhaps a design that is balanced will produce a smoother result. 90007 90042 – Consider runout. A holder with a lot of runout injects a lot of vibration that will ruin surface finish and ultimately break cutters. Smaller cutters are more sensitive to runout. A thousandth of an inch is a lot of runout for a 1/8 “cutter to deal with as it is effectively jerking the cutter around in the cut as it rotates.90007 90042 – Collets often have less runout than setscrew holders. Some complain they do not hold as well. A compromise would be to use set screw holders for larger shanked tooling (say anything over 1/2 “) and collets for smaller shanks. OTOH, for those that claim the collets do not hold (tools are getting sucked out), others are claiming the toolholder and collet are not clean, or the nut is not torqued down tightly enough. The specs for ER collet nut torque are pretty high, so be sure to give the spanner wrench a good tug.Alternatively, I have been using ball bearing nuts which take surprisingly less torque because they have a ball bearing interface with the ER collet instead of trying to spin against the collet as it tightens. 90007 90042 – Integral shanks are almost always stiffer than inserting a shanked tool into a toolholder. 90007 90042 – Various specialized holders are available such as flatback drives that seat the toolholder against a precision spindle face for more support than the taper alone could provide.90007 90012 Ball nosed cutters: slow nose speed 90013 90002 The biggest challenge with ball nosed end mills of various kinds is slow nose speed. As you get closer to the tip, the diameter on the ball gets smaller and smaller, finally going to zero. As a result, the cutter must perform over a wide range of surface speeds and chip loads at different depths in the cut. Be sure to keep this in mind when using one. If possible, use a feeds and speeds calculator or CAM program that properly accounts for these effects.90007 90002 Balance the diameter of a ball end cutter versus the rigidity. Remember, the part of the ball near the axis moves slowly. A smaller ball interpolated exposes more of the surface to a faster moving cutter, leading to a better finish. But, the smaller cutter can flex more. Hence the need to balance these two factors. 90007 90002 If you have a 4th axis or 5-axis mill, you can try “Sturz” milling to combat the slow moving tip. See below for details. 90007 90012 Ballnosed Cutters, Surface Finish, and Stepover 90013 90002 Choosing the right stepover for your ballnose is critical for efficient 3D profling.Check out our article on how to choose Stepover for details. 90007 90012 Set Your CAD and CAM Software Up Right for Good Surface Finishes 90013 90002 Our article 7 Software Excuses for Bad Surface Finish can help. 90007 90016 90007 90016 Facets on this part are due to CADCAM issues … 90007 90012 The Truth About “Mirror” Finishes 90013 90002 Anyone who frequents the machining boards online has seen countless threads where someone is asking after how to get a “mirror” finish from their mill or lathe.90007 90002 While it is easier to come close on a lathe, the truth about mirror finishes is that they largely do not exist. 90007 90002 Yes, there are machine tools capable of doing optical quality finishes. These are extremely rigid machines that largely use diamond tooling. But, those are not the machines most of us will have access to, and they are not the machines most people are talking about as they ask after a mirror finish. 90007 90002 Have you ever noticed how most photographs of a so-called mirror finish have the workpiece tilted at an extreme angle? Have you ever seen the highway mirage where it looks like there is a pool of water on the road far ahead of you that vanishes as you get closer? Same principle.Even asphalt will apparently have a “mirror” finish (that water you saw in the mirage was a reflection of the sky) if the angle of incidence is right. 90007 90002 Ask to see the mirror finish looking straight down on the part and you’ll see more clearly what these finishes are all about. 90007 90002 This is not to say that a fine milled finish can not be extremely attractive, its just that it does not really look like a mirror when viewed straight on. The tooling marks will still be visible, but they will be extremely faint grooves.In the best case, you’ll see rainbows created by diffraction effects acting on the grooves. It’s a look that has been called “prismatic”. The closest thing to it is the back of a CD where all the rainbows are, but the milled finish will be a more subtle effect. 90007 90002 That’s what you’re looking for to decide you have achieved a great finish. If you need to do better, it’s time to go to some abrasives of some kind and either user vibratory polish or a buffing wheel. 90007 90012 Special Tips for CNC Router Wood Surface Finish 90013 90002 The usual problems here are either burning or splintering and pull-out.90007 90002 Burning is a feeds and speeds problem. If you’ve got the right feeds and speeds and your cutter is still burning the material, it’s probably dull and needs to be changed. 90007 90002 Splintering and pull-out is tougher to fix. Typically it will require use of special CNC Router Cutters such as Downcut Spirals or Compression Cutters. These cutters reverse the helix direction so there’s no force pulling the grain up on wood cuts, and they make a huge difference. Especially on materials like plywood that splinter easily.90007 90002 One last tip to minimize splintering in wood: put on a thin spray coat of clear finish. It’ll help hold the wood together to reduce splintering. 90007 90002 90004 Join 100,000+ CNC’ers! 90005 Get our latest blog posts delivered straight to your email inbox once a week for free. Plus, we’ll give you access to some great CNC reference materials including: 90007.